tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10520218079588878062024-03-06T05:30:39.706+01:00Jenny en Camino 2014Everywhere is within walking distance, if you have the time.Jenny Hansenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05017559834923710098noreply@blogger.comBlogger32125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1052021807958887806.post-16773998703518155602014-05-06T15:04:00.001+02:002014-05-06T16:20:31.874+02:00Four days later<div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">It's four days later.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Saturday 3 May - tough crossing of The Pyrenees via Route Napoleon. Not so much the climb, but the horrendous weather. Rain, wind, cold, low cloud - couldn't see more than 20 metres ahead. Couldn't feel my feet most of the time. No photos until the long steep descent in the stunning forest is nearly over. Too wet, too cold, too cloudy - and too muddy - to get the camera out any earlier. <span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Very pleased to arrive at Roncesvalles, 27 kms later. We did it. Hot shower, fresh clothes - amazing how the previous 7 hours falls away. Tout va bien. But I'm en Espana now so - todo esta bien! Shortly after we arrive, the rain stops and the sun comes out. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Hotel Roncesvalles and the twos Casas complet, so stayed at the very nice, but very big albergue with nearly 200 others - dinner at the Hotel is some consolation. Horrified by the huge number of pilgrims in Roncesvalles - and not thrilled with some of what I see and hear. Pierre warned me May is becoming the busiest month, and this year overwhelmingly non-European and English speaking - in Australian, New Zealand, American and Irish accents. A very different atmosphere to my earlier Spanish Caminos and the comparatively deserted Chemin du Puy. I meet some nice pilgrims but find myself sticking close to my French friends. Knowing the small towns ahead the next day - barely more than villages - I wonder where all these people will sleep!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Sunday 4 May - gentle nostalgic walk from Roncesvalles to Zubiri. Still horrified by crowds but manage to get into a quiet space and enjoy The Way. When we stop for the day, the numbers hit me again. Pleased to have rooms in a nice pensione with Dominique, the other Dominique and Blaise. The small town is 'complet' and filled with pilgrims. I notice cafes and albergues that didn't exist a year ago. The local powers that be open the gymnasium to accommodate overflow on the floor. Yikes! Feeling more thankful every minute for my wonderful Spanish Caminos of 2011 and 2013 - so peaceful by comparison. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Monday 5 May - brilliant sunshine for the walk to Pamplona. Picture of me at favourite outdoor cafe along The Way. Jill and I photographed at same cafe last year - just a month earlier - all rugged up. Arrived in Pamplona before 1pm in brilliant sunshine. Enjoyed an afternoon strolling around, interrupted by late lunch at fabulous little tapas bar. Met Dominique, the other Dominique and Blaise at Cafe Iruna (famous for Hemingway connection) - vino at an outdoor table, great for people watching in Plaza del Castillo, followed by dinner. Sad to say goodbye - and already know I will miss them, and the walking! I'm not used to being the one leaving The Way while others continue. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Tuesday 6 May - after just an hour's bus ride. I'm in San Sebastián. As with Barcelona, love at first sight. And not just because of the tapas. Note to self: I'm not walking 20-30 kms a day now - try to show some restraint! Sightings of Camino shells and signs and the odd pilgrim bring a smile - San Sebastián is on the Camino del Norte. Perhaps I will walk that path one day. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Heading out again now to explore more of San Sebastián. I'm already in love, and haven't even made it to the beach yet. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The End. Home in a few days. Hasta Luego. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">J x</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">'<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYeCxFhpefZLYKPbEIZLr8HHy5DNlQqJQKY7nJS22lIZ8AG84Me2eAg72RaFSj9oZc25IYOxPYeOM6etWEgI5QNlmaZK3Sv0-4LkxP4ZKAvw6rNQrlw340mLB-kieWEXZrhyphenhyphenhkhKyCow/s640/blogger-image--810222770.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYeCxFhpefZLYKPbEIZLr8HHy5DNlQqJQKY7nJS22lIZ8AG84Me2eAg72RaFSj9oZc25IYOxPYeOM6etWEgI5QNlmaZK3Sv0-4LkxP4ZKAvw6rNQrlw340mLB-kieWEXZrhyphenhyphenhkhKyCow/s640/blogger-image--810222770.jpg"></a></div></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSPY2Z_IdsM1Bo-ieJEq0Q4obDxWeU1TOQ45AaV5nfxwEebVSGFac-O8lr2f4hONpEEgfNL2fnofI0T3p_a3yB-FmM2c608vZo6mbLx6h_g1XSme6db3WZwJaVI7H_qT5tRhx_w6tu8A/s640/blogger-image--615629527.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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It was a <span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">busy, emotional, funny, exhausting and happy day. I walked out to meet Sheryl and Glenn as planned and we walked back in together in the rain. It struck me that the grey skies and persistent rain were just as it was when we (Sheryl, Glenn, Jill and I) set out from this town on 1 April last year, though not quite as cold. </span></div><div><br></div><div>We enjoyed a wonderful lunch together - sharing the highlights of our time on The Way since we'd last been together on Day 7. They were taking the late afternoon train to Paris then on to Antwerp tomorrow to visit Carlo - and invited me to come with them. I thought about it over lunch but decided to stay on The Way for a while longer. There is already talk of the next Camino possibilities. You never know. Tout est possible au Chemin. </div><div><br></div><div>Seeing Sheryl and Glenn again today, hearing from Ana asking whether I might come to Barcelona before I return home, saying au revoir to Delphine and others at dinner tonight, making plans with Dominique for an early start tomorrow to walk the Route Napoleon across The Pyrenees into Spain - the Camino is all about the people - the ones you meet along The Way and the ones you miss from home. </div><div><br></div><div>A dear friend said to me a few weeks ago, 'I read the words and I see the pictures, but I know some days are really hard'. And they are. And it's not usually because of the long distance, the pack that's just a bit heavier than it should be, the tough terrain, the thick mud or the persistent rain. The hard days are when you've walked alone for three days, but feel more lonely sitting at dinner with 10 people who are speaking a language you don't understand. Or when you see something so stunningly beautiful or find yourself in such a special place (for example, the l'Alchimste gite) that you want someone from your 'real life' to be with you to bear witness to the experience. Or you accidentally delete the photos from the l'Alchimiste gite that you would love to have seen and shared - and hopefully still will. Or you think of home and feel you are away too long. </div><div><br></div><div>But thanks to so many people, I had very few really hard days. Most days, I was just happy to be walking in the unique - and now familiar - way that the Camino offers. And mindful of how fortunate I am to have the time, the resources and the good health to be able to do it. </div><div><br></div><div>So thank you to my Camino angels who made this another wonderful adventure for me - Sheryl, Glenn, Carlo, Sive, Mary-Rose and Brian, Ana, Natalie, Valerie, Sylvie and Jean, Evelyne, Elena, Jean-Phillipe, Veronique, Simone, the three ladies in the Gite Communal at Mirramont, Jean-Gatean, Emmanuel, Max and Sebastian, Dominique, Delphine and Pierre. </div><div><br></div><div>With not too many pilgrims, and 95% of those French speaking, the connection to home was especially important for me this time. BIG THANK YOU you to all my family and friends, and friends of friends, who have been 'following' me along The Way - and for your kind and enthusiastic messages. And special thanks to Clare and Richard for taking such wonderful care of Zoe and Zac. I've missed them, but have known they are in good hands and having a fine time!</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I expect this will be my last update. I plan to continue on The Way for the next 4-5 days, walking the first 100 kms or so of the Camino Frances, for the third time. I may be tempted to add a few photos but, as for the words, I've said enough for now. More than enough! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">A bientot. Hasta Luego. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">J x</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">PS. I left two things in St Jean Pied de Port. To thank Pierre for his kindness, I bought with me from home a CD of Gurrumul Yunupingu with the Sydney Symphony Orchestra. I gave it to Pierre last night and he seemed very happy to receive such a gift. When I went into his store today, the music was playing. He said it is 'tres tranquille', good for calming pilgrims who are often coming in to the store stressed as they are about to begin their daunting adventure! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The second thing I've left is a little white stone, which I placed in the pavement of Rue de Citadelle - see the last photo. It has travelled from home and all along The Way. Who knows where it will end up but, for now, it is part of this pilgrim town. </div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSQipwNQ1YkdstLGBMvlIpczfS6755_Cl3Puyim9-ftYzmMBf9-46gAOcn1VH9l1XQFfLyspLD-ojP0roH3jrGYuNM99x5VxaOUUfjicRTIY3NMaF3BM_ozBY8LK5Y2_X2_WGZUa2U9g/s640/blogger-image--32274694.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSQipwNQ1YkdstLGBMvlIpczfS6755_Cl3Puyim9-ftYzmMBf9-46gAOcn1VH9l1XQFfLyspLD-ojP0roH3jrGYuNM99x5VxaOUUfjicRTIY3NMaF3BM_ozBY8LK5Y2_X2_WGZUa2U9g/s640/blogger-image--32274694.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbUgVupBENP6WcG-9xUW0u7IoElJvH8k1XVfGeGAw0D1Kr4xoHacW_rp4ktnFVHF8GuR9gDDk4b4M97XsPJzd3ac5-1DGgNHEgwPRxU0PFLTzs_Z5iH_L08L6gCIWVxwpZexBk9Iclsg/s640/blogger-image--642470159.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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It's <span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">my third visit to SJPP. But this time I arrived on foot, walked into town from a different direction, and will stay two nights. It's a beautiful town. And I like the sense of familiarity. I'm happy to be here. </span></div><div><br></div><div>Just a brief update today. Shortly I'm going to tear myself away from my gorgeous chambre d'Hote to wander around, and visit the pilgrims office for my final Chemin du Puy stamp. Walking through the main village on arrival you can't help but notice the 'complet' signs. I am so grateful to Pierre for warning me that accommodation was tight and finding this lovely restful place for me. Dominique is here too - and completely by accident is sharing a room with his Suisse friend Ramon. An extraordinary coincidence - the sort that somehow seems commonplace on the Camino. Serendipity. </div><div><br></div><div>I have a busy schedule for the rest of today - and tomorrow. Delphine, Dominique and I have arranged to meet at 5 at the pilgrims office. I suspect we will find a suitable venue for a celebratory du vin. Pierre invited me to dinner tonight so I'm looking forward to that. I'll pop in to his hiking store beforehand (it's opposite the pilgrims office), say hi and make a time. </div><div><br></div><div>Tomorrow, I'm going to be a reverse pilgrim (ie walking in the opposite direction) for the first time - at least for the first time intentionally. Sheryl and Glenn are staying tonight in a small village about 20 kms before SJPP so we've arranged that I will walk back along The Way until I meet them, and we will have a few hours walking in to SJPP together. I can't wait to see them. They'll come back to my lovely room and 'freshen up' before leaving by train later in the day. Then tomorrow night an early dinner with Dominique, Delphine and probably a few others. I'm crossing my fingers we will see Max and Sebastian - last I heard they were hoping to arrive here by this evening, having spent an extra day at l'Alchimiste in Navarrenx. </div><div><br></div><div>As for Saturday, I'm hoping to cross The Pyrenees into Roncesvalles, Espana - by the Route Napoleon or Route Valcaros (perhaps with Dominique and Delphine?). I'm trying mot to think too much about it - I know from experience that it will be a tough day whichever way I go. The route will depend on the weather and advice from the pilgrims office. I'm not sure how far I will walk from there (as I have to make my way back to Paris by the 8th) - but I think Pierre will have some good advice for me tonight. </div><div><br></div><div>Also, I'm a little apprehensive about pilgrim numbers. I've never been here at this time of year (it's a month later than when Jill and I set out last year). May has become one of the most popular times to walk the Camino Frances and it's easy to see there are many more pilgrims around. Perhaps I should see if the beautiful Hotel Roncesvalles has a room available, rather than take my chances in the albergue! I don't think I'll need much convincing. Will let you know. </div><div><br></div><div>Before I go. Thanks so much for being in touch - Dad and Elaine, Cathy, Joan, Deb and Mandi. And for your call Rosanne. I've really enjoyed our chats along The Way! </div><div><br></div><div>Until tomorrow. A demain. Hasta Luego. </div><div><br></div><div>J x</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirS1f01MJT_edZL5QJEG1QDvhLxDYHknhRTKAfqGxYl5jm02S4aAJJpqhCRCusQPTcQ1aFqb6cqo1Mwv7mviw9knS7n-Kiz2u_7P6eko0xQ9y3cXEP2T6i7Dvd4C8ye0cvkwv_gdRWqw/s640/blogger-image-1957724513.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirS1f01MJT_edZL5QJEG1QDvhLxDYHknhRTKAfqGxYl5jm02S4aAJJpqhCRCusQPTcQ1aFqb6cqo1Mwv7mviw9knS7n-Kiz2u_7P6eko0xQ9y3cXEP2T6i7Dvd4C8ye0cvkwv_gdRWqw/s640/blogger-image-1957724513.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUZpsJ76VF-cv5KPMj3nAZ6VkuTLbFYqgJOBCJ043KW_ImgTdao1bIypOIzYiRkCT3kFhj8wPhDUoPoSd-4Te9WLVAC4YU-QxgWNhWx10NcPGODIwz38QNymcR5YLrrKeg_xa8dsiUIA/s640/blogger-image--247065906.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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Et tout est bien - all is well. Thanks in large part to the kindness of family and old and new friends. Will explain a little later. </div><div><br></div><div>A wonderful farm gite last night with yet again a fabulous dinner, cooked by the young gite owner Simone and her mother. Her husband runs the farm. I know I haven't gone into the detail but the food on the Chemin du Puy has been outstanding. The French are proud of their produce and cooking, as they should be. My friend Rosanne said the other day, 'It's almost impossible to get a bad meal in the French countryside'. I think Lilly and Bill would agree. It's not fair really. I've been walking my butt off for the past four weeks. But thanks to the delicious food and wine, and to my inability to say no, I have not actually walked my butt off at all. Damn. </div><div><br></div><div>There were about 20 pilgrims in the gite last night - you may have noticed there have been more pilgrims on The Way in the last week or so. But continuing my good fortune, just Delphine and I sharing a 3 bed room. On Chemin du Puy the gites I've stayed in have mostly had rooms for between 2 and 6 people. That's a luxury on the Spanish Camino. </div><div><br></div><div>I set off this morning with Dominique, in light rain. Delphine had left about half an hour earlier. She walks at a little slower pace so we often end up together some time later - as we did today. Having made the long climb to Chapelle de Soyarza, we found Delphine having picnic lunch in the tiny chapel with Swiss couple Dominique and Blaise, who I'd met at Simone's gite last night. We all had the tastiest jambon, fromage, tomate and salade baguettes that Simone had prepared for our lunch, as there were no shops, cafes or bars along the way today. The views from Chapelle de Soyarza were worth the climb. What a great spot to stop for lunch and rest for a while. </div><div><br></div><div>It was strange setting out this morning, reminding myself that I was just 42 - 45 kms from St Jean Pied de Port - depending on which book you use. Two days solid walking, though not overly long days - yet little more than half an hour by car. As has been the case for the past week, we had rain and sunshine - and a few hard climbs thrown in this afternoon just to make sure we were still paying attention! And I had company all day which was a nice change. There were shortcuts on offer again today - naturally - but this time not everyone took them! Which brings me to a funny thing that happened yesterday but I wasn't in the right frame of mind to tell the story last night. </div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Yesterday morning when I was having breakfast at l'Alchimiste, there was much talk of the pate man. I thought it must be a shop in the town. I didn't take much notice as I wasn't too concerned about food for yesterday's 18 km walk. I had one muesli bar left in my pack, and that should be enough. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div>About two hours or so into the morning's walk, I <span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">climbed a small hill to an intersection and sure enough there was the pate man's factory and warehouse. Outside there is a small picnic area where pilgrims are welcome to stop and rest. And many varieties of duck liver and chicken liver pate are available for just 2 euros. I bought a chicken liver and Armagnac. Haven't tasted it yet, but I'm sure it will be great. I plan to buy 'le pain' in the morning before heading off, so bread and pate will be lunch. </span></div><div><br></div><div>While I was resting there I decided to check my emails. I saw there was one from Pierre (from SJPP) with the subject matter 'shortcuts'. Immediately I felt a pang of regret having the night before written about the French fondness for 'le shortcut', realising it was a big generalisation based on a small number of pilgrims and local gite owners. And more to the point, I'd forgotten that Pierre was reading my blog. Yikes. Well, no need for concern. </div><div><br></div><div>Pierre was very strong in his email. I must continue to follow The Way, the true Camino, as I have been doing. Tomorrow, he said (i.e. Today), many pilgrims will take a shortcut and, by doing so, will miss the Chapelle de Soyarza and, just before it, the Stele de Gibraltar (a small intersection where three Caminos converge - Chemin du Puy, Chemin du Tours (from Paris) and Chemin du Vezelay. </div><div><br></div><div>He continued, 'It is typical of the French (and the Dutch) to look for shortcuts. They are coming to walk but they are looking to take as many shortcuts as possible (frowning face symbol). Strange to do Camino like this ... No?' Yes. </div><div><br></div><div>Smiling to myself, and relieved that Pierre had not been offended, I gathered my gear together and walked over to the pate man to thank him and say au revoir. He asked where I would be staying that night. When I mentioned the farm gite he assured me it was a very good place and that Simone was a wonderful cook. And so it is, and she is. And then he added, 'There is a very good shortcut tomorrow, just a short time after you pass .... You must be sure to take it!' Voila. </div><div><br></div><div>Best start wrapping it up for the night. <span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Big thank you to those I've heard from over the past few days and hadn't yet mentioned and for all the kind words and encouragement overnight regarding the loss of the l'Alchimiste photos. To Luise in Perth, Martin, Jill, Pierre, Helen (mum), Julie, Pam, Cathy, Audrey, Rosanne, Judy, Marian, Bill and Lilly, David A, Ange, and Cathryn and Ray - and to Clare and Richard for taking care of Zac and Zoe and sending more photos. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">On the subject of the deleted photos from l'Alchimiste, some great news. When I told Domimique what I had done, he immediately announced, 'ah, but Jenny, all is not lost!' He asked me to bring the camera to him. He said he believed I may be able to retrieve the photos when I return home. They are still 'there' until such time as I take more photos on the camera. He said the most important thing after such an accident was not to take any more photos on that memory card. He removed it from my camera and locked it. He said he could not guarantee that I will get the photos back, but 'it is very possible - why not?' </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">I felt my spirits lift straight away. The only problem is that I don't have a spare, meaning no more photos until I can buy another card. 'I have the solution!', said Domimique. With that, he disappeared and returned a few minutes later with a spare memory card for me. Such kindness. That's why I have photos today. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Then this morning, an email from Cathryn and Ray in Sydney giving me the exact same advice. They have been down that road with special photos from Uluru - and with the help of Paxtons camera store in Sydney managed to retrieve many, though not all, of the deleted photos. I am thrilled to know of this possibility. And if I do get those photos back I will do a post Camino update to share them with you!</span></div><div><br></div><div>Finally, happy birthday wishes for the 28th, 29th and 30th to Maddie, Nick and Rebecca. Hope each of you have (had) a great day. </div><div><br></div><div>Day 28 tomorrow, walking in to St Jean Pied de Port, the end of Chemin du Puy - though I have a little more walking to do after that. </div><div><br></div><div>Merci et bon nuit. A demain. </div><div><br></div><div>J x</div><div><br></div><div>PS have included photos of Zoe and Zac doing it tough while I'm away. Hard to imagine that there was a time we were concerned that Zac might not 'bond' as he can be a little fearful until he gets to know you. I heard that his bromance with Richard started within the first week. Still going strong I'd say! </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGRL-Sc7RABUnIgGxUk0iTiURrg2OqFbXhvYtABsVcYSwkKPPLg2OJ-yMj_jQcR0-YU7ViHe6DGdCbzrFpSYdsGKv2-097v7E436xVdXD1nNQLJCbYE1bpdW-QoJjnQke5oxGQ6hdH2w/s640/blogger-image--616008503.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGRL-Sc7RABUnIgGxUk0iTiURrg2OqFbXhvYtABsVcYSwkKPPLg2OJ-yMj_jQcR0-YU7ViHe6DGdCbzrFpSYdsGKv2-097v7E436xVdXD1nNQLJCbYE1bpdW-QoJjnQke5oxGQ6hdH2w/s640/blogger-image--616008503.jpg"></a></div></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYwFokmrRnfER4QIgjH-t0Umk24U6q-89GSVg13N7ZO_IYOPpkEBDCvEx16CUGqctDqd0xJR52jNeYHeMbU9NLsRjZj-HghOR2BPDOxZdSSkaqrUJQCfhxpOvfYp0weEDjbWud4yzEKA/s640/blogger-image-345415083.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiobdG3TEuZiC-C5M85qsO0qIQzIMdY_-AoyL9td4_QKLXqhub5NyvgiB0JN41hCx9J76Pcp-x8dVcO-_jgtS7PYds2sNLxbjrdNiCQalqmn5LThF0EVul5leK25hAe7xZDxTpH7X0IzA/s640/blogger-image-1169648557.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvvG6d1lP1ZkWFnWyFCYp_sTuTsGKIAB7ZZ4uU7bOsaYFBmFuX1Sm8sLauj3mtUuN60olVjUx98JyE3ditbVNlfFgEOHPJthLhq0XpIGXCkxbqt70ySaAdPf4ZrYM08hEpR8fdthIX4A/s640/blogger-image-275414462.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvvG6d1lP1ZkWFnWyFCYp_sTuTsGKIAB7ZZ4uU7bOsaYFBmFuX1Sm8sLauj3mtUuN60olVjUx98JyE3ditbVNlfFgEOHPJthLhq0XpIGXCkxbqt70ySaAdPf4ZrYM08hEpR8fdthIX4A/s640/blogger-image-275414462.jpg"></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><br></div>Jenny Hansenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05017559834923710098noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1052021807958887806.post-20202239204682681012014-04-29T15:59:00.001+02:002014-04-29T16:08:12.593+02:00Day 26 - Navarrenx to Aroue-Ithorots-Olhaiby (18 kms)I can't write today. And I have only one photo to share. Sorry. <div><br></div><div>I took many photos at l'Alchimiste last night and this morning. It is one of the most beautiful homes to be welcomed in to and a highlight of the Chemin. And it is 'donativo' - by donation. A special place offered by kind, generous and smiling people. </div><div><br></div><div>When I was uploading the photos to my iPad I was so excited to look at them and choose the best to share. But I had first to make more space. I accidentally deleted all the photos from the iPad and camera - except one saved yesterday afternoon. </div><div><br></div><div>This is my most difficult day on The Way. </div><div><br></div><div>J x</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhC6PrRv5WTlvYdsZrSB3f1oAtuUDWJX0W1bPwNReV1VpBOXNFKVT2MMysog7NUk6chm4d-Q8e7XM-j2IjLv0fq7OvCbkuMnevGqxohSnlh__VrjqKyMqmVdYjcsT1XIz0iPGTya0ZNg/s640/blogger-image--1748034065.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhC6PrRv5WTlvYdsZrSB3f1oAtuUDWJX0W1bPwNReV1VpBOXNFKVT2MMysog7NUk6chm4d-Q8e7XM-j2IjLv0fq7OvCbkuMnevGqxohSnlh__VrjqKyMqmVdYjcsT1XIz0iPGTya0ZNg/s640/blogger-image--1748034065.jpg"></a></div><br></div>Jenny Hansenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05017559834923710098noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1052021807958887806.post-44079461008909749552014-04-28T16:34:00.001+02:002014-04-28T22:52:28.390+02:00Days 24 and 25 - Arzacq-Arraziguet to Arthez-de-Bearn to Navarrenx
(57.5 kms)<div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Day 24 - Arzacq-Arraziguet to Arthez-deBearn (28.5 kms)</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Day 25 - Arthez-de-Bearn to Navarrenx (29 kms)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">To start at the end, this afternoon after a tough day I arrived at the gite chez l'Alchimiste. What a peaceful and special place. I received the warmest of welcomes from Jean-Gitean (the alchemist!) and Emmanuelle, a volunteer. I feel lucky that, by chance, I am one of just 8 pilgrims who can be accommodated here. <span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Most days I choose the gite based on the name and / or a recommendation. It was difficult to resist chez l'Alchimiste, just as it was to resist Gite Boulangerie the night before. Though they are entirely different, I'm very happy to have found my way to both. More on l'Alchimiste tomorrow as I'm getting ahead of myself. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Apologies for not posting an update yesterday - the connection was weak at Gite Boulangerie and I wasn't able to upload the photos. We enjoyed a wonderful dinner there - with Dominque, Max, Sebastian and others (photos included in this post). Very welcome after another tough afternoon. Bertrand the gite owner also owns the local Boulangerie/Patisserie (which explains the name of the gite) so this morning, as instructed by him, we made our way to the village and sat in the kitchen at the back of his store eating the freshest and most delicious chocolate croissants! But back to the walking.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The accepted wisdom on Chemin du Puy is that the first 10 days are the toughest and the path eases off after that. Overall I'd say that is the case but every day seems to have at least one or two real kickers, and that's not counting dealing with the mud. In the last two days, the afternoons have been particularly tough, with two or three gruelling ascents. Yesterday, in heavy rain and strong, cold wind. This afternoon, thankfully just a light drizzle. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">There seems to be a recurring theme on the Chemin du Puy which moves more or less in a south westerly direction - compared to Camino Frances which is almost a straight line running from east to west across Spain. So this afternoon on the Chemin was typical. After a steep climb, I was walking along the top of a ridge. I could see the path running straight ahead for about 100 metres. To my left was another deep valley and, clearly visible on the other side, a narrow road running steeply up to yet another ridge. You look at the steep path and say to yourself surely that won't be The Way. But of course you know that it is. And with that, on the straight path which lay ahead a sign appears indicating that The Way requires a sharp turn to the left. And so begins a steep descent to the bottom of the valley, so that you can make your way up the other side. It happens without fail. There's a joke my French friends like to tell about the Chemin. 'If I am heading south, why am I always climbing?'.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The other recurring theme of this Camino is that the French appear to very partial to 'le shortcut'. This first came to my attention some weeks ago with the Frenchman Pierre-Michel. I would often pass him early in the day only to pass him again later on. One particular day, I came out of a forest to find him coming up the road to my right. I asked him if he had been lost. Not at all. He proudly showed me on the map that he had worked out a shortcut by taking the road instead of the forest. Initially I thought this was just a Pierre-Michel thing. Not so. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Over the last three days, there have been two instances where my companions have excitedly announced that the gite owner or another local has told them how to make a shortcut. Today it was about 2 kms, on Saturday they say it was about 7. Word seems to spread like wildfire and the end result is that everyone from the gite bar me - and one other today - opts for the shortcut. That's how I managed to start Saturday with Dominique and Delphine and end up walking on my own from 11.30 on. And today, I walked with Dominique, and the German boys Max and Sebastian for about 15 minutes before they opted for the road to save two kilometres. Yesterday no shortcuts, so Dominque, Max, Sebastian and I walked together all day and it was most enjoyable. And, as a result, what was to have been French day, turned out to be English day. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Back to the shortcuts. I just don't get it. I'd be the first to opt for a shorter distance if I were injured, not feeling well, running out of time, or the conditions made the path dangerous. But in the normal course of events, it seems odd to me that so many people opt to walk other than on The Way. Except for a couple of variants to avoid busy roads, I don't recall this phenomenon in Spain. But, on the other hand, mon amies are confounded that I don't go with them. All I can say to them is that the Camino has always been kind to me (even when I miss a turn and take the wrong path and have to backtrack as I did again today - uggghh!) and so I will stay on The Way. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Before I sign off, big thank you for being in touch Helen (Mum), Audrey, Rosanne, Cathryn, Marian and Julie-Ann. Always lovely to hear from home. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Not far to go now - about 60 kms to St Jean Pied de Port. I have no reason to hurry so I will walk the final distance over the next three days - sounds very relaxing! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">A bientot. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">J xx</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoLHOKsQitBcCiDahZ7fr8IYvGaTqTViMjFlI183R_hGeQBNgyvW4dejtN4XMABGv6bjWqGtVDVf_vj_-P0LrBGDoY_Ai0M8A2jgp1pO91IMeYMM09Q55YBLP65ZwpsfeTr4ISjvb7WQ/s640/blogger-image-668115183.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoLHOKsQitBcCiDahZ7fr8IYvGaTqTViMjFlI183R_hGeQBNgyvW4dejtN4XMABGv6bjWqGtVDVf_vj_-P0LrBGDoY_Ai0M8A2jgp1pO91IMeYMM09Q55YBLP65ZwpsfeTr4ISjvb7WQ/s640/blogger-image-668115183.jpg"></a></div></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKjS0MWmJIGWYFZqnyHH-8kctjI2F5u59G9GXSSuVCOTSzZptIXrWtIz1Zi3GvMQ2z4WgVIGUEjI6soCIt-qGxGtEvoK1pJE16Z9jj-UVQ3PeMKxVJ7xEIxidTZthTzYKHSQc_lo0PuQ/s640/blogger-image--1119699848.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZtfN9T6_tlNvfFPY-ydQrK3toKZd_JE1_bPpedNI7RcnSBr5yP-dB6orIXHpxhb3IwNqN3__M2JJ4fsHIBGNE6gLAK4Bv07Xq6MkbjaAUMeipsr3x8y4FlVUV7yLc9sZCb-pjhmHRHg/s640/blogger-image-1151078153.jpg"></a></div><br></div>Jenny Hansenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05017559834923710098noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1052021807958887806.post-47896830311184691922014-04-26T18:32:00.001+02:002014-04-26T22:10:32.884+02:00Day 23 - Aire-sur-l'Adoure to Arzacq-Arraziguet (34 kms)<div>Aire-sur-l'Adour - Miramont-Sensacq - Pimbo - Arzacq-Arraziguet</div><div><br></div><div>Today was a strange day on The Way. But that's rather a long story so will have to wait for another time. I've come back from dinner a little late. All of a sudden a whole gang of English speakers appeared at dinner at the gite. A group of six from Belgium, Anders from Switzerland, and two young pilgrims (university students) Max and Sebastian from Germany. </div><div><br></div><div>For the past two weeks, almost every night I have been the sole non-French speaker at the dinner table - tonight English ruled. It was a nice change to understand and be able to participate in the conversation. But there's a price to pay. Dominique announced that if we were to walk together tomorrow, Sunday, it will be French day, ie, I have to speak French all day. I'm not concerned. It will be far worse for him than for me! </div><div><br></div><div>I hope I run in to Max and Sebastian again. I love to see young people on The Way - like Evan and Jane last year (we dubbed The Children of the Camino). If I'd known about The Camino in my backpacking days, I think it would have been just the ticket. Max and Sebastian started in Le Puy en Velay and are hoping to walk all the way to Santiago, then on to Finisterre. They were excited and full of questions when they discovered I had walked that Way. For those who are walking on, St Jean Pied de Port and the crossing the Spanish border and on to Roncesvalles are less than a week away, so talk is turning to Spain! </div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div>Just about bed time. - so many thanks <span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">for your emails Julie (from Seville!), Judy and Mandi, and for the great chat on the phone, Rosanne. It's strange walking along the Chemin in the French countryside talking to you on a line so clear you could be next door. What a treat. </span></div><div><br></div><div>Before I sign off, a brief explanation of some of the photos tonight which begin with dinner last night then sunrise from my bedroom window this morning. Also, the snow capped Pyrennees - spectacular. I heard a French 'Camino' joke today. If you can see the Pyrennees, it means that rain is on the way. If you can't see the Pyrenees, it means it's raining. Given the weather this afternoon, and the forecast tomorrow, maybe it's true! </div><div><br></div><div>Also photos of a small country cottage decked out with 60th birthday decorations. I spoke to the farmer who said it was in honour of his brother's birthday. Perhaps you can see the little sign, 'Boulevard des Soixante Primtemps'. Boulevard of Sixty Summers. </div><div><br></div><div>One of my favourite photos - three lovely French ladies who were so kind to me today. Will hopefully get to that story tomorrow. </div><div><br></div><div>And finally, the exterior of my gite accommodation tonight where I have my own room! More like a little studio apartment. Luxury. </div><div><br></div><div>Hopefully I will be back on track with a proper update tomorrow. But who knows what the Camino has in mind for me. </div><div><br></div><div>J x</div><div><br></div><div>PS. Though it think the daily km numbers are often out, and there is no consistency across the guide books - by all references I've walked well over 600 kms since leaving Le Puy en Velay. Not long to go now until I reach the end at St Jean Pied de Port. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbcqEDT7mickAZAwpXyZpFDX-S7MxWro0mqlbK05980gzXrHMmvVmSna-1Pv-GszD8rC8JwZqTtd4JSWewv49P9Oq3nR0Ed20-ZQyO5tZ2kdHaBozrtGUhsy5fZ6OJ5Q2ppI93jUZ_Vg/s640/blogger-image--1960100040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbcqEDT7mickAZAwpXyZpFDX-S7MxWro0mqlbK05980gzXrHMmvVmSna-1Pv-GszD8rC8JwZqTtd4JSWewv49P9Oq3nR0Ed20-ZQyO5tZ2kdHaBozrtGUhsy5fZ6OJ5Q2ppI93jUZ_Vg/s640/blogger-image--1960100040.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN-hsfm3uyIXGdoi9d2TJ1WDnziaQ-x0MvAWyJg0aybeHnDEG8sOv0Kx6km9-zAixEb0QOR10TOl20cisVUEOWLVnOZydSyAd7dTyAxMjQWxKUy7sDZ67EMbZ7tm13s65CAfQf-J86zQ/s640/blogger-image-924274585.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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More typical April weather arrived today. The light rain that began yesterday afternoon continued overnight. When we set out this morning, just a drizzle but not too cold. Pas de probleme. The distance today was not too far and on a relatively flat path. Just as well. </div><div><br></div><div>The first 10 kms went by quickly and the cool weather made for an easy walk, mostly with Dominique but also Delphine and others who were at the same gite last night. There have been more pilgrims on the path over the past week, but still not many - and almost all French. I'm lucky to be walking with one of the few who speaks and understands English well and is patient and encouraging with my Franglais. Even I am noticing some improvement. </div><div><br></div><div>Back to today. The last 13 or so kms were a different story. Cold wind and rain. It reminded me of the first week Jill and I had in Spain last year. En Espana, the cold rain started on our first day, and that was all we knew for the first week - unless you count snow - so we were ecstatic when Super Sunday arrived and the sun stayed with us for the next two weeks. But on Chemin Le Puy until today, just a little rain, mild temperatures and lots of sunshine. The change was a bit of a shock when it came. </div><div><br></div><div>Our lunch stop was short and timed to coincide with a brief reprieve from the rain. My bottom half was drenched and I was cold, so the less time spent sitting or standing around the better for me. Despite the conditions, it's likely the fastest 13 kms I've walked in the past three weeks. I didn't complain - at least not out loud - but I was looking forward to reaching our destination. </div><div><br></div><div>As usual, the Camino provides. We arrived at the Hospitalet Saint-Jacques - recommended by Christian last night - and it was obvious that we were in a special place. Pilgrims Andre and Odile are our hosts and the atmosphere is peaceful and relaxing but will all facilities a pilgrim needs - including a dryer. Yeah. Dominique and I were the first pilgrims to arrive today (shortly after 1.30) and were welcomed by Andre with a glass of hot tea - anise and camomile. The view to the garden is delightful and classical music is playing softly in the background. Jill, I know you can guess where it reminds me of - Refugio de Acacio y Orietta in Viloria de la Rioja. Just lovely. </div><div><br></div><div>Thanks to the rain and wind today, the camera didn't come out for most of the afternoon. So <span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">the photos tonight are from dinner last night (sorry for poor quality but you get the idea), from the first two hours of today before the heavens opened - and finally, walking in to Aire-sue and our lovely gite. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">I've also included a few photos which show that The Way is often just a narrow path, through an open field or through private farming land or vineyards. </span></div><div><br></div><div>Lovely to receive your messages, emails and comments - Jill, Mandi, Marian, Joan, Ange and Sive. A sunny way to start what turned out to be a cold and wet day. Thank you, mes amies. </div><div><br></div><div>Big day tomorrow - about 34 kms. I know I mentioned that I would be easing off but that's in a few days time. Sometimes on the Camino - and it was the same in Spain - there are few choices. And sometimes, there are none. There is no accommodation between here and Arzacq-Arraziguet, so that has to be the destination for tomorrow. I went to the supermarket in the town this afternoon so I have snacks. And Odile is making a picnic lunch including le pain and pate - home made, naturallement. </div><div><br></div><div>J x</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz0LBFXurap_Ybutxj5A-8Rj74_Vp4rSaRzDQVbu2s_he1bBZnKdoA4co3ZRZfYq4Tcrt8zT2Wyj_qWXsQwu00bIAC3w8aTIektpKRCXIMA5xygt1IB7V96IxZT1Rbx-xfd71NF7M-0A/s640/blogger-image-559848260.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz0LBFXurap_Ybutxj5A-8Rj74_Vp4rSaRzDQVbu2s_he1bBZnKdoA4co3ZRZfYq4Tcrt8zT2Wyj_qWXsQwu00bIAC3w8aTIektpKRCXIMA5xygt1IB7V96IxZT1Rbx-xfd71NF7M-0A/s640/blogger-image-559848260.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOs8IyP3wJXc6rUmiJKMHVRjObOGez53xilbOGB7OyghtEKF0UTF5WN49y74mvJaMwDB8L1w9nP350HNjwC-GwWkk2JwWke2RjKCIjHvs05WXQZi8G3GAK5wgwwoO9V4sBVy3KiCJ9aw/s640/blogger-image-1965765157.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS6z0xO-p49B-Yf1FYLQhot1skCyc7dcuxuhdCr_JpvslIEjw7HcuSwDJdjf5cwLMS_BaVp9fMNAz9dmtX913humN1F382063U1-bjU90SqzZSj8KexILWiFKyTinDs5ySwb8_rBMKkw/s640/blogger-image--579380843.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><br></div>Jenny Hansenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05017559834923710098noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1052021807958887806.post-35376348757866069902014-04-24T16:22:00.001+02:002014-04-24T21:34:25.308+02:00Day 21 - Eauze to Arblade-le-Haut (25.5 kms)<div>Eauze<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"> - Manciet - Nogaro - Arblade-le-Haut</span></div><div><br></div><div>Today was such a relaxing day of walking - 'facile et tranquille', other than for a minor medical emergency which I'll get to. No need to panic - tout est bien! </div><div><br></div><div>I walked again today with Dominique. I mentioned that he had an interesting story. So just a snippet. On the first day we walked together (yesterday) I couldn't help but notice he is quite meticulous. For example, he notes on the relevant page of his guidebook the time of day he sets out, the breaks along the way and the time he arrives at his pre-determined destination. Also, he announced to me early on that he stops at 10.30 to have a muesli bar and again between 12.30 and 1.00pm for lunch depending on when he comes across a suitable location. He added that if this didn't suit me, he would be very happy to stop at any time that I would like to and that I should let him know if I would prefer he walk on. He really is a gentleman. </div><div><br></div><div>The third thing I noticed within the first hour that morning was the way in which he navigated and guided me through the sections of thick mud that had reappeared - though thankfully they were soon behind us. Step to the right here, on the stone there, take the grass to your left, on the fallen branch here, take the middle path. </div><div><br></div><div>After the mud we resumed the conversation started earlier in the morning. Dominique told me that he had been retired for many years. I was a little surprised. Though I'm not sure of his age, I would have guessed had he retired it would have been quite recently. As if he had read my mind, he added, 'I didn't want to leave my job. But if you have a dangerous job you are forced to retire early.' Turns out Dominique was a landmine disposal specialist for the French military, followed by NATO and then the UN. I asked a few questions and was astonished to learn that the estimated number of unexploded landmines in the world is counted in millions and that, at current rates, it would take hundreds of years to eradicate them. His final comment on the subject was elegantly simple and stayed with me, 'I saw death many times, but death didn't want to take me. Now here I am walking The Way'.</div><div><br></div><div>On a lighter note, the meticulousness and precision I'd noticed earlier quickly made sense. And I can also vouch that, as you'd expect, Dominque is cool headed in a crisis. Today, we were walking through a dark section of forest when I suddenly felt some thing or things fly around my face and then a sharp pain around my neck. I swatted them away, with Dominique's help, and me making quite a racket in the process. I was really in pain and had to quickly unload my pack and investigate. Turns out I'd been stung by a guepe (wasp). And the dart was sticking in to my collarbone. I couldn't see it but thankfully Dominque was able to remove it. Of course this must all sound ridiculously dramatic but it was painful and I was glad it hadn't happened while I was on my own. A little paw paw ointment and no permanent damage. </div><div><br></div><div>The rest of the day went along without incident, other than rain starting about half an hour before reaching our destination - the L'Arbradoise chambre d'Hote and gite. It's gorgeous, right down to the lovely lotus painting in the gite room I am sharing with a French girl, Delphine. And we have our own bathroom. Luxury. The main house was built in 1872 - fairly modern compared to most I've seen over the past three weeks and we will have dinner in there tonight. Can't wait to see inside. Photos of the main house and gite building included tonight. </div><div><br></div><div>Not long to go now until dinner at 7, so time to wrap up. </div><div><br></div><div>Great to hear from you Robert, Rosanne, Audrey - and Brian (as in Brian and Mary-Rose from Melbourne whom I met on Camino just a few weeks back). Brian, I will be in touch to confirm the house number in Ernest Street for your brother and sister in law so you can let them know (warn them) I may knock on the door to introduce myself! </div><div><br></div><div>Also a big thank you to Pierre for letting me know accommodation is tight in St Jean Pied de Port on my anticipated arrival date - and for ringing around to find a room for me! Tu es tres, tres gentil. </div><div><br></div><div>On that topic, my new ideas for my time in Spain after I arrive in SJPP have been sitting with me since the second week and are coming together. When I planned this trip, I knew I would not want to leave without spending time in Spain. For some reason I had the idea that I must find a short spanish Camino which would take me to Santiago de Compostela - and that the Camino Primitovo might be the thing. But I let go of that idea quite soon after beginning the Chemin du Puy. I realised that one Camino at a time is the better way for me. Enjoy and appreciate my French Camimo rather than look beyond it for something more. </div><div><br></div><div>With my new plan, I am confident I will see Sheryl and Glenn again, most likely at SJPP. We keep in touch and they are about two days behind me, and plan to be in SJPP on 2 May. I am on track to arrive on 30 April. But there is no hurry now to race across Spain to fit in the Primitivo, so I expect I will take it easy in the last few days, arrive on 1 May and wait for Sheryl and Glenn to walk in the next day. </div><div><br></div><div>I will then have 5 or 6 days to 'wander' in Spain before making my way back to Paris - and home on Sunday 11th. I have a pretty good idea what I'll do with those 5 or 6 days but no plans required just yet - it will all fall into place after I arrive in St Jean. It feels just right to me. </div><div><br></div><div>A bientot. </div><div><br></div><div>J x</div><div>PS. Happy birthday to Tony Cooper. And sending good wishes on Anzac Day which I know is of particular personal significance to some of my friends and their families. Thinking of you. X</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVtNI6HQt8-4kPOBnknMpz8S-7zxfCF9BGYh5WL_6Ai8sW1rDeKnr3PkidpBaZFc2Jf797jXi22GBJY7ks1aazhvPa9On7nWICKXogXvPVztVwC7HfmLJFNXotYpQrhH7JfyHHy8x2Ww/s640/blogger-image-2031176927.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVtNI6HQt8-4kPOBnknMpz8S-7zxfCF9BGYh5WL_6Ai8sW1rDeKnr3PkidpBaZFc2Jf797jXi22GBJY7ks1aazhvPa9On7nWICKXogXvPVztVwC7HfmLJFNXotYpQrhH7JfyHHy8x2Ww/s640/blogger-image-2031176927.jpg"></a></div></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7pLmFft7LrFVuIlLajFPSoIkMjaJL028bQyNBnp6y8ydH9gmDZq_-8G6MJVPuDqpJld1Tg9wstcxkzxnfglcceV7CtjL0sEjlFPGVFca7F3E-c92DXn-KkSa1Gxy_7n_Md2fN1l3EdQ/s640/blogger-image--1693030407.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAOs4pAG3OgQXuM3-LCs0nfCBzFZ4uPoDaQpXqan-G_6XXsnwwC3Rxgf_KSTJ1ZNx3UvchFSTqPIul5lhV_t8bpxCsdFk7RkeHTZ-W0Gb4kJsxhn-huxBl3qsXomPxN31MKK9Mi9ENgw/s640/blogger-image-2049281774.jpg"></a></div><br></div>Jenny Hansenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05017559834923710098noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1052021807958887806.post-88325319602494625182014-04-23T18:59:00.001+02:002014-04-23T22:41:24.968+02:00Day 20 - Condom to Eauze (31 kms)<div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Condom - Lamothe - Eauze</span></div><div><br></div><div>Tonight I am in Eauze, stil in the mid-Pyrenees region. Eauze and Condom (where I set out from this morning) both claim to be the capital of the Armagnac region.</div><div><br></div><div>No brandy at Elena's gite last night but a delicious dinner with Elena, her friend Charlotte and three Frenchmen, also guests at the gite. Elena, Charlotte, and two of the Frenchmen spoke some English, so it was easier for me to understand and participate in the conversation. Elena also told us that her boyfriend Jean-Phillipe has a bistro in Eauze which we might like to visit as an alternative to taking demi-pensione at our gite. </div><div><br></div><div>And so tonight I had dinner with two French men - that's not something I can say too often - ie never! Dominique, Pierre-Michel and I enjoyed a wonderful dinner of 5 courses at <span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Jean-Philipe's bistro,The Loft Cafe, on the square in Eauze opposite the church. One of the our two desserts was strawberries in Grand Marnier Armagnac, a specialty of the region. (Walked all day with Dominique today - he has an interesting story and is delightful company). </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">So, that's why this is the briefest of updates. It's after 10.30 and the pilgrims day starts early. We heard tonight that it is market day here in Eauze tomorrow so I'm excited to see that before we continue along The Way. Hope to get lots of great photos to share with you. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Quick hi and thank you for being in touch to Helen (Mum), Pam, Clare, Rosanne, Martin (from yesterday - always great to receive your encouraging words, Coach) and to Pierre from the pilgrims hiking shop in St Jean Pied de Port - quelle honneur and quelle surprise that you are following my blog! I look forward to seeing you very soon in SJPP!</span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">A bientot. </span></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">J x</font></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUE9K1Tr4k2hDJc_RMOykdRJnvuHzeOB21vDye8wW2sqQyKuFwzSb3bMt1bHWannsd43Ssv4exXFn200pB27y7tsfL-EXUHMsjI5J80_9yyyEjb3oJWR_48d-c_K72XPAXpZGJ907NxA/s640/blogger-image-1394747689.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUE9K1Tr4k2hDJc_RMOykdRJnvuHzeOB21vDye8wW2sqQyKuFwzSb3bMt1bHWannsd43Ssv4exXFn200pB27y7tsfL-EXUHMsjI5J80_9yyyEjb3oJWR_48d-c_K72XPAXpZGJ907NxA/s640/blogger-image-1394747689.jpg"></a></div></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV0rlkzYkYFQjMvlK0ZWR3csQmfhXCfGTA_YLwQsrhTkB9kZE-JBOGwX12yoFymQouXWk2XnEfDVfVJlJsAOjsi0mUH8vuR9Jjwym-6pgXAQwQ7SnCVcRHzqRHfAbnnzymqr2hamyjoA/s640/blogger-image-633460306.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrX2_z4DFfHC6d9slMOmfA2bXFFhzMxZnW4eRBdWYh5Zfgnp-PjBgY3ffxrKFWkCN0uaURYjGBM5brP1GDo2jh7K_xucY68ITqf5OD8a2yCl8R68TnITOS_m8Imm7hEBu6T8-HmSeexA/s640/blogger-image-154397756.jpg"></a></div></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><br></div>Jenny Hansenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05017559834923710098noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1052021807958887806.post-26075928409593681362014-04-22T17:18:00.001+02:002014-04-22T22:09:06.824+02:00Day 19 - Lectoure to Condom (27 kms)<div>Lectoure<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"> - Marsolan - Castelnau-sur-l'Auvignon - Condom </span></div><div><br></div><div>Bon jour mes amies. So let's just get straight to the elephant in the living room. Yes I'm staying tonight in a town called Condom. Mais, ce n'est rien. When you've stayed at the Hotel Colon (as Jill and Martin and I did in Barcelona last year) a town called Condom seems perfectly reasonable to me. </div><div><br></div><div>The town is also known as Condom-en-Armagnac so I am in brandy country. I wonder if we will be offered a glass after dinner tonight at the gite. And, for the record, I should say that the Hotel Colon is a very comfortable hotel in a perfect location in Barcelona. According to Wikipedia, the hotel would most likely be named after Christoper Colombus who was thought to have changed his last name to Colon when he became a Spanish citizen. </div><div><br></div><div><div style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">But back to the start of the day. When I set out this morning I almost immediately bumped into a German lady, Cecelia, whom I'd met briefly the afternoon before as we both navigated the last of the thick mud on the way in to Lectoure. I wouldn't have bothered trying to clean up my shoes if I'd known what today had in store. Anyhoo, back to Cecelia. </div><div style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></div><div style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">We fell into stride together but, from the outset, Cecelia seemed anxious that we were not going the right way. I wondered if she somehow knew my history. It's true that the markers on the Chemin du Puy are few and far between in places - compared to Spain - and this can be disconcerting. But I had learned a hard lesson just a few days ago and was uncharacteristically confident that we were exactly where we should be. I tried to reassure Cecelia that I had been watching for markers very carefully and was sure we were on The Way. It wasn't easy as Cecelia has only a few words of English and no French and I had long ago blocked out any German I may have learned from Frau Wagner in the eighth grade. </div><div style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></div><div style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">After about 15 minutes through thick mud and not having seen a marker, Cecelia seemed resolute that we must turn around and go back the way we came. I felt conflicted. I didn't like to let her go back on her own as she seemed distressed. But I was also sure we were on the right track and the thought of retracing our steps through that thick mud was most unappealing. I tried to suggest that now we were out of the mud we could walk just a little further and perhaps we would see a marker. I don't think she understood. In any case, I barely had the words out and she had tuned around and was gone. Of course you know the rest. Less than a few minutes later, a marker to confirm we were indeed on The Way. I didn't see Cecelia again today but I'm sure she will be fine. Perhaps just a little more weary than she might otherwise have been. I know that feeling. </div></div><div style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></div><div style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">The rest of the day can be summed up as follows - stunning scenery, mud, beautiful village of Marsolan (but no shops or cafes open), mud, magnificent private homes, mud, vineyards, mud, still nowhere to buy food or a coffee, mud, eating my bread and honey (from breakfast) in the tranquil gardens of Chapel St Germaine, mud, more stunning scenery, more mud, coming over the hill to see the town of Condom ahead sooner than expected, and a final 30 metres of thick mud to end the day the way it began. </div><div style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></div><div style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">My poles got quite a workout today. And I was grateful for the yoga and body balance classes. Trying to stay upright while navigating those long stretches of deep mud is exhausting. It was squelchy, slippery and just plain icky. Yuk! But then before I knew it, I was in the lovely Gite de Casa du Pelerin, welcomed by the young French owner, Elena. Out of my dirty shoes and clothes and into a hot shower - and the mud fell away. </div><div><br></div><div>So best sign off now. Thanks for being in touch and for your kind words and good wishes - Dad and Elaine, Mary Patricia, Helen C., Jan C., Julie-Anne, Ray and Cathryn, Rosanne and Judy. It is always lovely to receive your comments and emails. And special hi to Jean and Sylvie (who I last saw in Moissac) - thank you for your email and photo. And to Kris and Rod from Wyoming (who Jill and I met last year) - what a lovely surprise to hear from you again today. </div><div><br></div><div>And great to have a chat Helen (Mum) even if it did mean that I didn't watch where I was going and took the wrong road out of Marsolan. I realised pretty quickly (I'm starting to trust my intuition again) and turned back. Had it not been for that wrong turn I wouldn't have the photo of the 'enfants' coming back from the Easter egg hunt! So, no regrets. </div><div><br></div><div>A bientot. Love and best wishes </div><div><br></div><div>J x</div><div>PS. I've spared you more mud photos. I wasn't game to get my camera out. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiplR76zlF0-Q7UL_vKdrnDFnrP3NpjVRJuU_gw3xpfvqDBh7U14GAt4Dkg5LUvxb-pWfaXu7BJbSP4qumYoHaEchSyzlF1QAWwvH3LIOrSu6Wv1Ala3PyqR4t5Up0-GD6nRs8fBGa6mQ/s640/blogger-image--1495805163.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiplR76zlF0-Q7UL_vKdrnDFnrP3NpjVRJuU_gw3xpfvqDBh7U14GAt4Dkg5LUvxb-pWfaXu7BJbSP4qumYoHaEchSyzlF1QAWwvH3LIOrSu6Wv1Ala3PyqR4t5Up0-GD6nRs8fBGa6mQ/s640/blogger-image--1495805163.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTYMtqiTFXlT-kcrJm08OTe24Hn1-YK1jvoHosOl0wbWzoBw-Zdp-iCAUQ47IsoowrTHFQLUWbZ-Amp8LgOcqOXaXE7hb-xlKbKVSf_0d_tBtR3pgd1U8iFjK3W8aQbeRkCQHlbFEMeQ/s640/blogger-image-322544755.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZq_btcLskpGm2b7Kgfst7K_2-DZS_CBhq4KV52Gw3Tpzqi8pcakoMhyphenhyphen6wqo9ckbWvHmz9oexNxa_TYg25fmYetDSZPwFvtfM8NNKs9tFn0QcI5nIn6B7Hg73jfLzPDlB519lAyWVZ2A/s640/blogger-image--216386670.jpg"></a></div><br></div>Jenny Hansenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05017559834923710098noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1052021807958887806.post-16998787581385075202014-04-21T17:31:00.001+02:002014-04-21T21:44:59.515+02:00Day 18 - Saint-Antoine - Lectoure (24 kms)<div>Saint-Antoine - Miradoux - Castet-Arrouy - Lectoure </div><div><br></div><div>I had the idea that I would write tonight about the walking itself - prompted by something Helen (Mum) wrote in an email overnight - that someone had made the comment to her that the film 'The Way' hadn't done justice to the Camino because it made the walking look too easy. It got me thinking whether I agree with that and how hard is it really - but like the accommodation, the food, and a few other topics I haven't got around to yet, that will have to wait for another time. Perhaps tomorrow night. </div><div><br></div><div>You see I had started this update earlier this afternoon with the ritual uploading of the photos - I always do that first because if the connection is not strong it can take a while. And I figure if you're only going to get words or pictures - the pictures win hands down. </div><div><br></div><div>Anyhoo, photos were uploaded while I enjoyed a glass of wine in the sunny courtyard of a lovely hotel near where I'm staying. When I returned to the gite, intending to write the words, the hospitalero Veronique invited me to have a cup of tea. She is delightful and has been very kind to me. Her establishment (like many others on the Chemin) offers both Chambre d'Hote (private rooms) and the gite. There are two couples staying in the private rooms and I have the 6 bed gite room, with two bathrooms and huge kitchen and access to the garden, all to myself. </div><div><br></div><div>Veronique is a delightful host and a great storyteller with tales of her own travels on The Way as well as the many pilgrims she has had stay with her over the last six years. Before I knew it, it was past 7 and time to find somewhere to eat. Veronique doesn't offer demi pensione, and it's Easter Monday, so there are not many choices in Lectoure tonight. On Veronique's advice I went to Le Rouge Gorge. It's a quirky little place and it was buzzing. </div><div><br></div><div>Dinner was fabulous, probably the most delicious since my night with Evelyn and Roland and family in Cajarc. I wished I had my camera. But probably just as well I didn't have the opportunity to embarrass myself by photographing the decor, the food, the other guests and the enormous dog at the next table (under the table). It looked like a cross between a shibu and a malamute. But seemed to have very good manners. </div><div><br></div><div>www.lerougegorge32.fr</div><div><br></div><div>So I'm back at the gite later than usual, with a few chores to do before bed time. I'm planning a 30+ day tomorrow so need to be well rested. Just a few things before I sign off - </div><div><br></div><div>Great to hear from you via texts, comments and emails - David A (Brisbane), Jill, Rosanne, Ana (thank you for the photos!) and Marc. And Helen (Mum), Bev, Mike, and all other family members via the family update emails. I feel I'm now up to date with all the news and love the photos of baby Fred in Zurich. </div><div><br></div><div>Hello also to Line in Norway and thank you for your kind comments on the blog. I'd be very happy to let you know about the gear I use etc as requested. As I don't have an email address for you, if you send me an email to jennymhansen@me.com I'll reply directly. </div><div><br></div><div>Big thank you to Clare and Richard for your message and photo of Zoe and Zac enjoying the harbour view at George's Heights, Mosman on Easter Monday. The Zs have had a very social long weekend. Just to prove there are dogs more spoilt than mine but possibly not as spoilt as the one at Le Rouge Gorge tonight - I am including a photo I took from outside the vet surgery in Lauzerte. No lying on the floor for that pooch! </div><div><br></div><div>The very last photo tonight is of one of Marc Heffner's Camino works. Marc is a German born artist now living in London. The Camino inspires some of his work. Jill and I first saw a print of one of his paintings in an albergue in Ventosa last year. On my return after that Camino, I managed to 'track him down' and now Jill and I both have some of his lovely prints as mementos of our Camino. Marc has been following the blog and sent me an email last night and attached a photo of one of his paintings. It reminds me of my time on the Camino Frances last year with Jill and also of home! Very special, thank you Marc. </div><div><br></div><div>C'est tout pour le moment. A bientot. </div><div><br></div><div>J x</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQUIcUY5_qtx4pCohFOzKKBwiqzEGgOy0y_ovTVvmDvYt9IFVLZftMWmick6D8nf4Afv7kXN8widXJQ96Yom-Z7kEyIIFXAQ5fiUHElUBu_YqYy8rCEgYyOi2eyPl-WjJ-6Cwc1Qs5QQ/s640/blogger-image-1377269210.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQUIcUY5_qtx4pCohFOzKKBwiqzEGgOy0y_ovTVvmDvYt9IFVLZftMWmick6D8nf4Afv7kXN8widXJQ96Yom-Z7kEyIIFXAQ5fiUHElUBu_YqYy8rCEgYyOi2eyPl-WjJ-6Cwc1Qs5QQ/s640/blogger-image-1377269210.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgClQdiKcK7os5QIOAcAq7L_mhBCTT0KVDv938hooJU3opnMR1D_yADg5BgooqfFvkkGcVyobjT9A_wTipXjT3gISJSeoj28sI2Ve1cSWvCE-PG34aRnNqRyW9qMOm44vIjngUDo2YzAg/s640/blogger-image-507669262.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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I'm doing my best to upload a few photos and write an update while sitting unobtrusively on one glass of wine before dinner. So I want to write the most important things first, in case the connection disappears. </div><div><br></div><div>I've received some lovely messages over the last two days - from Helen (Mum), Mandi, Joan, Sue, Rosanne and Marian. And Anna - who I farewelled this morning and who, just a few hours later (still on the train, I guess), sent through a comment via the blog! Quelle surprise. Merci ma jeune souer. Thank you all for your kindness. </div><div><br></div><div>Special thanks to Marian for having Zac and Zoe over for a play date on Easter Sunday - they would have been beside themselves with excitement. And to Marian, Judy, Jan and Mary for taking the Zs for an outing to Tunks Park, and to Judy for sending the great photo of the Zs with their buddies Lil and Gertie. It was so nice to see and hear how well they are doing - I am grateful to you all and to Clare and Richard for taking such good care of them at home. </div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">And big thank you to Jill for your call yesterday. It was wonderful to have such a long chat as I was wandering along The Way. As it turned out, your encouragement could not have been more timely. I thought of your words often today, which turned put to be one of my harder days. Tu comprends bien les jours difficile sur le Camino. Merci mon amie. </span></div><div><br></div><div>So back to the past two days. I <span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">didn't write an update last night as we had arrived in Moissac mid afternoon and wanted to spend some time exploring the famous abbey and cloisters. Also there was a pre-dinner vino in the plaza to farewell Anna followed by a family style al fresco dinner in the garden of our gite. We stayed in the Ultreia gite in Moissac - from the Spanish word Ultreya, meaning 'walk on'. It was the first non-French gite I've come across. Our hosts were a delightful Irish couple, Rom and Adine, who live there with their 6 year old son Matthew and 18 month old terrier, Minnie (pictured). More to tell about this lovely couple - hopefully will get to it in another update. </span></div><div><br></div><div>Walking and weather wise, the past two days could not have been more different. <span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Easter Saturday was all blue sky and sunshine, not a particularly long day, though a tougher path than expected. I walked along happily with Anna. It was her last day on the Chemin du Puy for the time being. It's been such fun to walk with Anna. I haven't mentioned before but she has really been suffering - problems with her big toes and little toes on both feet and her heel as well. Her bandages and my hikers wool have helped a little but I know she was in considerable pain. You would never know from her smile and spirit. I admire her courage. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Today, Easter Sunday, was grey skies, raining, along a mostly flat path alongside a canal for about 20 of the 29 kms. I walked alone all day though there were other pilgrims ahead and behind. I tend to walk faster on my own so I didn't mind and I didn't mind the drizzling rain - it had to happen some time. What could possibly go wrong? </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Long story short, I went off the Chemin twice today - the first time due to my impatience and the second because I wasn't paying attention. Lessons on the Camino are often very simple and quantifiable. My impatience and not being present today added about an hour and a half and 6 kms to my 29 kms. As a result of my 35 kms in the rain, I'm a little worse for wear. And, there were a few tears along the way. I wonder if I have now learned those lessons at least for the remainder of this Camino. J'espere!! </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">So a tough day today but the many acts and words of kindness that came my way from home more than made up for that. Random acts of kindness are a theme of The Camino. As I left the Ultreia gite this morning in the rain, Irish Rom said something to me which I'm sure he says genuinely to every pilgrim: 'Be sure to ring any time if you need any help. Remember that two days to you on Le Chemin is less than an hour in the car for us'. That's one of the many reasons why I love walking the Camino. </font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><br></font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">A bientot</font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><br></font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">J x</font></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO7N0nFtzahCWqRyhYj-NLQOWCYDhM0scpFVO-aDgAlc2SvqEmmh9sM6e3phhXHdvGhEsd0Qe7573YZu9_Zpk86M2S-nG0jfFv3sYGV4cr1SuOQY00p3b-5qUTpy8_96m_T8xG6BwMrA/s640/blogger-image-1593363792.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO7N0nFtzahCWqRyhYj-NLQOWCYDhM0scpFVO-aDgAlc2SvqEmmh9sM6e3phhXHdvGhEsd0Qe7573YZu9_Zpk86M2S-nG0jfFv3sYGV4cr1SuOQY00p3b-5qUTpy8_96m_T8xG6BwMrA/s640/blogger-image-1593363792.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUuQsNtYZovXD-Ujv10iuDGJg4ojgaDkYnF76Jc7uetxw4p9Ebi6aD8-doihU_0t1ZZ1dpjNhst0QejjDdYKrLKSe5aBzTZ-3EQFU58t0T2AbOKv5vi0urFsyYOFShfQp9kiZEmqRniA/s640/blogger-image-1152251598.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1dPCtl0eLCFrUMz6EzikIra9qz6GcWOBOdoZ1Lfd63yiuMx8ifkIdnUP7jn2PiiYuSJoroxukA1DFqszUIiEPiCREA_Rj20nIFlMymuhrLFGFQmaHcbIOx_5oBw4Wx_3vaGBge_LbKA/s640/blogger-image--1589813716.jpg"></a></div><br></div>Jenny Hansenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05017559834923710098noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1052021807958887806.post-60194940309527107842014-04-18T16:42:00.001+02:002014-04-18T22:04:36.631+02:00Days 14 and 15 - Cahors to Lauzerte (47 kms)<div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Day 14</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"> - Cahors - Lascabanes (23 kms)</span></div><div>Day 15 - Lascabanes - Montcuq - Lauzerte (24kms)</div><div><br></div><div>Hi and sorry for being off the air yesterday. Last night in the tiny village of Lascabanes there was no network coverage at all and tonight in the town of Lauzerte, plenty of network coverage - but way too much socialising. So I will be a pilgrim of few words this evening and leave you with a selection of the 100+ photos I've taken over these two days. </div><div><br></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Last update, I was in Cahors having walked from Vaylets with Anna, Valerie and Natalie whom I met at the convent, along with Jean and Sylive. Since then I have had the most wonderful two days including coming across Bob again (the diabetes crusader whom Jill and I met last year in Spain, and who I started put with in Le Puy en Velay, along with Sheryl and Glenn). I hadn't seen Bob since Day 7 at Saint-Chely-d'Aubrac. </span></div><div><br></div><div>I have been overwhelmed by the beauty and variety of the landscape from the beginning including, in the last few days, the dirt paths in scrubby bushland, the forests and the farmlands. And by the charm and architecture of both Lascabanes and Lauzere, and the wonderful gites we've stayed in. And I hope I'll get around to telling you more about the gite accommodation and delicious food. But, more than all of that, I've been overwhelmed by how much fun and laughter I've had with a small group of people with whom I share many things, but not a common language. Somehow we have made it work. It's been a fabulous few days. </div><div><br></div><div>During that time my main walking buddy has been Anna from Barcelona. With just my smattering of French and her slightly better English we have had a wonderful time filled with laughter. We are sympatico. I will be sad to say a bientot to her on Sunday morning as her Camino for this year finishes in Moissac tomorrow night. So another relatively short day tomorrow as our little group has decided we will all stay in the same gite and enjoy our last dinner with Anna.</div><div><br></div><div>After Mossaic, I expect I will pick up the pace a little - though I have plenty of time. I've had some new ideas about where to after I finish Chemin du Puy in St Jean Pied de Port. And I'm just letting that sit with me for time being. On the Camino I always try to follow my heart / intuition - if I do that, I am confident I will make the right choices. Will let you know when I decide. </div><div><br></div><div>I promise I will get back on track eventually with proper updates ... In the meantime, thanks so much for being in touch Helen (Mum), Audrey, Judy, Mandi, Marian - and Rosanne, great to chat to you on the phone. The line was so clear it was as if you were next door! </div><div><br></div><div>A bientot. And Joyeuses Paques. Happy Easter. </div><div><br></div><div>J x</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdV-Uzo3WgsOljRFBj_WOHgbd3nb13f7A_dflv4sy1cwHPUGwm9vNElZH1-saZOUcG_efZgINrXDN2aLJQYzWpue_dkk4MF2Mct0HJPASgREfZZa0s5SOjsv-wiMww3dfKPDMzkczuRg/s640/blogger-image--1633952520.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdV-Uzo3WgsOljRFBj_WOHgbd3nb13f7A_dflv4sy1cwHPUGwm9vNElZH1-saZOUcG_efZgINrXDN2aLJQYzWpue_dkk4MF2Mct0HJPASgREfZZa0s5SOjsv-wiMww3dfKPDMzkczuRg/s640/blogger-image--1633952520.jpg"></a></div></div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVqhhG7nACOogq_u8UsCUjf-cchJpVZBADPHC87S6dmjITuYmAaKPbbOkmmkAlS_bZCVuIiUWm6TnylI0xybHvmYqPpqkf55kTAw-0GopnMJqwYACk1wKX5eZ_ehDDFh8LH5pkfPsxCg/s640/blogger-image--1422725023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRueHDagLSN38PaZVB9XVMMmalUxdw1zI__yWyM4vyvBKyZcEghT0-iCkvNJVu11QmqD2lmCBXxyCJaRqF6SxBq9fWMlh_d7eMAkqDrBN0qiopvufuOhEDiYRWssSVkFfOxiB0Cw5GGQ/s640/blogger-image--1460046636.jpg"></a></div><br></div>Jenny Hansenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05017559834923710098noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1052021807958887806.post-69954224831985361592014-04-16T18:02:00.001+02:002014-04-16T22:11:15.110+02:00Day 13 - Vaylats to Cahors (24 kms)<div>Vaylats<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"> - Mas de Vers - Cahors</span></div><div><br></div><div>Another stunning day on Chemin du Puy. How long can this Summer weather last in the first days of Spring? It's wonderful. <span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">The full moon was still visible low in the sky when I set off around 7.45am - this time in company for the first time since I said a bientot to Sive at Conques. It was a welcome change to walk with others for part of the day. </span></div><div><br></div><div>Last night I shared a room with (Spanish) Anna from Barcelona (love that city). Anna is fluent in French and speaks a little English. The other pelerins (pilgrims) at the convent included (French) Natalie and Valerie, two mums taking a week to walk from Figeac where they left off last year. And (French) John and Sylvie who, like the girls, are walking their second stage of the Camino. I am finding this to be 'typicale' - most of the people I've met are French and most walk the Chemin du Puy a week to 10 days at a time on annual vacation. It's the same for the Spanish en Camino in Spain. </div><div><br></div><div>So I left the convent this morning with Anna, Natalie, and Valerie, stopping first at the boulangerie for pain, jambon et fromage and a banana. Once again, there would be no place along the way to buy food or drinks - I'm getting used to missing out on that second coffee! Although after a while we spread out, we arranged that we would stay at the same gite in Cahors tonight. At least I was pretty confident that I understood the arrangement. Thankfully, I came to the right place and we are sharing a very comfortable four bed room here. At one stage during the morning I walked with Jean and Sylvie as well and we had quite the chat. I find I can follow and contribute to a French conversation much better with one or two people, if they have a little English to help me out. In a larger group, once they're off and running I am completely lost. </div><div><br></div><div>But I promised to tell you about the wonderful evening with Evelyne, Roland, Nadine and Michel two nights ago. All at the table with such casual elegance and style - and then there was me. Sitting between Evelyne and Nadine I must have presented quite a contrast, to put it kindly. Crumpled t-shirt (at least it was clean thanks to Evelyne), hiking skirt, hiking sandals, with socks, of course, and wild hair - don't know what's going on there. I did don a bandana to 'dress up' and take attention away from the crazy hair, but I think perhaps it had the opposite affect. To top it off, no make up - other than my Cancer Council pink tinged SPF 50 lip gloss. And eyeliner - it's my one vanity item I never travel without. Perhaps I am 'a little French' after all! If anyone noticed my 'own special style' - how could they not? - they were far too gracious to let on. </div><div><br></div><div>The food is a real highlight of the Chemin du Puy, as you might expect - and that's just the pilgrims menus. At Evelyne's table we had an entree selection of foie gras (which she makes in November each year), a goose terrine, and famous Le Puy lentils with smoked salmon and eschallots. Everyone kept insisting I have a little more - un petit peu - of everything as 'you have many kilometres to walk'.</div><div><br></div><div>Main course was delicious lamb with a lightly dressed salad and potatoes. I noticed that Evelyne and Nadine were taking only salad with their lamb - the potatos went straight to Roland and Michel. A book title suddenly jumped into my head (Why French women don't get fat) and I also declined the potatoes, naturallement! It wasn't as though I would go hungry without them. </div><div><br></div><div>Then followed the cheese platter. Nadine explained the origins of each of the five cheeses on offer - 'of course you must try them all - un petit peu', said Eveylne. Of course! You would think this was enough but having been in France almost two weeks one thing I know is that 'le diner' is not complete without dessert. Evelyne had whipped up a creme brûlée some time in the afternoon between settling me in, doing my washing, driving into Figeac to the market and preparing the other courses. 'Of course, you must try Evelyne's creme brûlée, said Roland. 'Un petit peu'. Of course. </div><div><br></div><div>Somehow amid all this eating we managed to have wonderful conversation, some of which I understood - and I somehow felt that I had known these people for some time, rather than just a few hours. Almost forgot - Michel had chosen a 2005 vin rouge from Cahors, which he explained is very famous for its wine. </div><div><br></div><div>Which brings me to dinner tonight in Cahors, also 'French style' but in a different way. The gite has a pilgrims 'summer kitchen' opening to the garden. Such a beautiful evening, we decided to shop for food and wine and make our own dinner. I wisely left the shopping and the cooking to Natalie and Valerie and played to my strengths setting the table and doing the washing up! We had almonds and olives to start, then grilled checked and salad, followed by a cheese platter and a petit tub of chocolafe mousse, with bread, of course, and a bottle or rose. All of this bought at the supermarket - split 4 ways, 5 euros each. Superbe. </div><div><br></div><div>It's after 10 now, so best get some sleep. I'm not sure where I will walk to tomorrow - the options seem to be 24 or 33 kms, so depends how I'm feeling.</div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Before I sign off, great to hear from you Sive, Clare and Richard, Audrey, Rosanne and Bill and Lilly. A BIG THANK YOU. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">A bientot </span></div><div><br></div><div>J xx</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkzFsJ7SR0l9w_yN5942U_DGhhR1KUy5YJKCX2IupnfZgVnk-6rbypTvPwb1NmQ_LhOJAgVrMYxKTSKv6qwchIo5bLcctQ3hT_NAd6ezsiq0rFnuK3irLXpmYuNy2Xchf8iHh-hAkDJA/s640/blogger-image-629462704.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkzFsJ7SR0l9w_yN5942U_DGhhR1KUy5YJKCX2IupnfZgVnk-6rbypTvPwb1NmQ_LhOJAgVrMYxKTSKv6qwchIo5bLcctQ3hT_NAd6ezsiq0rFnuK3irLXpmYuNy2Xchf8iHh-hAkDJA/s640/blogger-image-629462704.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYAlQJvLuj_OXAHI0FbT_jL_fHKTdO159saLfDCL9qS34rWfHbGuDLtLz7Nsvx_mM1FWBYg0IDtJWz1bUwX83TO594dqHK9SV6ivAGVE_VX5ByRiFZfhIxy5-Lk8ctGb5kQuiH2hMmgw/s640/blogger-image-180526922.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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Less said the better. Blue skies, feeling strong and a flat path for the most part, so thought I would make the most of it today to walk on to the small village of Vaylets - which means just 24 kms to Cahors tomorrow. </div><div><br></div><div>Cahors is a mediaeval city almost entirely surrounded by water. By all accounts it's lovely. Hopefully I'll be there by mid afternoon - plenty of time to wander around. Did I mention in an early post that daylight saving started here on 1 April? Already, it's light until after 9. </div><div><br></div><div>It's nearly 9 now as I begin this update so I'll make it a short one - not just that it's getting late (by pilgrim standards) but the internet coverage is 'shaky'. I'm just back from dinner with 7 other pilgrims and about 20 nuns - some very old indeed. We are staying in the convent in Vaylets - or at least a building which was once part of the convent and has been refurbished for pilgrims. The rooms are simple, but comfortable and spotless, as are the bathrooms. I love it. I ran out of time today but will try to take a few photos before I leave in the morning. </div><div><br></div><div>I was going to give a full report on dinner last night with Evelyne and family - but will do that tomorrow from Cahors when hopefully I'll have more time and the connection will be more stable. In summary, it was wonderful, right up there as a special and memorable Camino experience. The food was as French and fabulous as you could imagine. And the conversation flowed - sort of - thanks to everyone's generosity and patience and Evelyne translating when we got 'stuck'. I would not have imagined I could feel so at home and welcome with four complete strangers, five including Aliane the cocker spaniel. More tomorrow. </div><div><br></div><div>Before I sign off, great to hear from you - Julie, Deb, Mike, Judy, Rosanne, Clare, Audrey and Carlo. Thank you for your news from home and good wishes. </div><div><br></div><div>I had hoped to catch up on my individual replies to emails but time has gotten away from me again tonight. It must seem strange that I always seem to be busy but by the time you walk for between 7 and 9 hours, find the gite, get settled in the gite, unpack, wash yourself and your undies, upload photos, try to have a drink before dinner, have dinner etc ... I know, it's a tough life. Will try again tomorrow. </div><div><br></div><div>Photos tonight not from today's walk but from the beautiful town of Cajarc! </div><div><br></div><div>J x</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvcWNePBojmTisUzaQE6KBNf-llO6xUuwxfu_RYbrW_asPcqckE4UztGTIGHOjp8pLyAMU22pjaq5JlXCuaV6BzxUq3ioZKwlfUHOhDPxkI0uhKEOJSVxjZ50PZ56wFhMjrl-Tv76ikQ/s640/blogger-image--772906808.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvcWNePBojmTisUzaQE6KBNf-llO6xUuwxfu_RYbrW_asPcqckE4UztGTIGHOjp8pLyAMU22pjaq5JlXCuaV6BzxUq3ioZKwlfUHOhDPxkI0uhKEOJSVxjZ50PZ56wFhMjrl-Tv76ikQ/s640/blogger-image--772906808.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgngsf8BArGBic_tP5XfXQXqpM-26hw-hyTjzOZ-_rguZgyeBPcDqNeCGwpg0uVYHYlIUODjGKERQOI6AoX9YKtnfjwL8K3BlQtIjRvRZOqKUmgs-IfyZ0KZOeKI9qOR3BwswVf6z3Y2A/s640/blogger-image--480556895.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKs5n0EaH-Rlfn7zNYbYdQGNlBkwaW5hfpmILKdWHjj2ySyzPkizhhK-2Il1vCGS1fE8Y0Olf7WcrRpmqW8mAg9gr_jcJYyKef5EjXvmeTnrVKotutIZykUVZF8uaBbFzS7Kg-kkAOdA/s640/blogger-image--1741206137.jpg"></a></div><br></div>Jenny Hansenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05017559834923710098noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1052021807958887806.post-8286390108820654772014-04-14T16:36:00.001+02:002014-04-14T22:51:58.125+02:00Day 11 - La Cassagnole to Cajarc (25 kms)<div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">La Cassagnole - Faycelles - Bedeur - Cajarc</span></div><div><br></div><div>Stunning blue skies again today on the Camino Le Puy. It's 4.30 pm as I begin this update, and 22 degrees in Cajarc. The weather could not be better - more like early summer than early spring according to the locals. </div><div><br></div><div>Today was certainly the easiest day's walking so far on The Way and the most isolated. I saw just one other pilgrim briefly as I passed through a tiny village in the late morning. I don't know why but I didn't feel lonely or uneasy. I just kept walking. I didn't really have enough food in my pack and there wasn't an opportunity to buy anything after the first 5 kms, so that may have kept me moving at a pretty good pace. Before I knew it, I was at my destination. </div><div><br></div><div>I had a good feeling when I walked down the steep rocky path towards Cajarc. What a lovely town. Although it was only 2 in the afternoon I decided I would have an 'early mark' and take a room to myself for the first time. This may seem counter-intuitive to treat yourself after a short and relatively easy day. But the way I look at it if you're going to splurge on a private room you may as well have the time to enjoy it. </div><div><br></div><div>The gold standard of this approach was set in April 2013 when Jill and I planned a short day into Leon to make the most of our stay at the fabulous Parador de Leon. We walked 18 kms and still made it to the hotel reception desk by 11.45, a little early for the 12 noon check-in. We didn't waste a minute. <span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">My accommodation tonight is not quite El Parador but it's special in a different way. </span></div><div><br></div><div>When I arrived I wandered around the town, found a shady spot down by the river and consulted the Miam Miam Dodo, the most comprehensive of the Camino Le Puy guide books - available in French, but not English, so I muddle through. The phrase Miam Miam Dodo is French baby talk for Yum Yum Beddy-bys. A strange name but the guide includes information on food and accommodation so I guess that makes sense! An obvious accommodation choice didn't jump out at me. Perhaps some local knowledge would help. </div><div><br></div><div>As it's Monday afternoon most shops, bars and cafes are closed but when I walked through the main square earlier I noticed the office de tourisme was open. It's housed in a beautiful old chapel. The lady behind the counter was most helpful and suggested a Chambre d'Hote with rooms for one or two persons and not too expensive. And she offered to call on my behalf. Trop facile. Yes a room was available for me. She walked me out of the chapel, and directed me to take a right and then a left and walk down to the end of the grassy lane. </div><div><br></div><div>By the time I was halfway down the lane, a lady appeared. This was Evelyne. It turns out I am to be a guest in her home - she and her husband Roland and their beautiful golden English Cocker Spaniel, Alaine. Evelyne greeted me warmly She showed me to my lovely bedroom and then to the bathroom, gave me fresh towels and insisted I use the shampoo, body wash, moisturiser - whatever I wanted! Before long I was showered and changed and sitting down to a cup of tea and home made cake. </div><div><br></div><div>Evelyne invited me to have dinner at home tonight with she and Roland, and her brother Michel and sister in law Nadine who are visiting for a few days. She said not to feel any obligation but I was more than welcome. I hesitated only for a few seconds. I'd love to! </div><div><br></div><div>In the meantime, I thought I would spend an hour or two wandering around the town but would be sure to be back by 8 for dinner. I was about to head out when Evelyne asked if I would give her any washing I would like done! It was no trouble, she insisted, and in this weather it would all be dry by tonight. What a kind and gracious hostess. </div><div><br></div><div>So I've been out for a few hours and have returned to find all my clothes clean, dry and folded on my bed. And in time to finish this update and have a quick nap before dinner. I'm looking forward to that - and will report back tomorrow. </div><div><br></div><div>Before I sign off, thanks so much for being in touch - Audrey, Rosanne, Mandi, Connie, Helen C. and Jan C. Jan, I've noted your request for a photo of my legs without socks and will do so very soon. I'm feeling a little pressure so perhaps I'll give it a day or two more in the sun. Though I do think that low tan line mark is coming along well! </div><div><br></div><div>A bientot </div><div><br></div><div>J x</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlxoHfX79_Z-k96HHfWSHjN8gokGuXrTKS0bdfJlk8M9TY_UMAcVWsFWsjhryf7880fIT7KQ542jnOQfIyn11wV4Nsd12BtiHoJNr9oqtwXnxRo60Mx8e-SfANqKIjYo3ckqXq8uMfog/s640/blogger-image-664845452.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlxoHfX79_Z-k96HHfWSHjN8gokGuXrTKS0bdfJlk8M9TY_UMAcVWsFWsjhryf7880fIT7KQ542jnOQfIyn11wV4Nsd12BtiHoJNr9oqtwXnxRo60Mx8e-SfANqKIjYo3ckqXq8uMfog/s640/blogger-image-664845452.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWNh3qOXLbGHYkgm49uqvRskE-sUP-axUJTOXumG_hX2xV6PBFKWK4xSsHqVfk7__z3V_ixe0mgrImw6iPs5Dx_3qpesbOFMn423hSNwLJhy13955xjUz4HoZKCKaJEOHzZKQsHMPxOg/s640/blogger-image-101850463.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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For the first hour a heavy mist meant I couldn't see far ahead but it soon lifted to reveal blue skies - again! Although we had some light rain in the first few days out of Le Puy, the weather has been much dryer and warmer than I had any right to expect. I'm not sure of the temperatures but I think most mornings have been around 6 or 7 degrees when I am setting off, climbing to high teens or low 20s by early afternoon. A little cloud cover would be good to soften the afternoon sun but the lack of rain makes for an easier time especially on the dirt paths, so I'm not complaining. </div><div><br></div><div>In fact I was thinking just that this morning as I successfully navigated a few narrow muddy sections, thankful that there hadn't been heavy rain or snow for some time or things could get very messy. Not 10 minutes later, I was in just such a mess. The mud path extended about 30 metres in front of me. With a steep fenced embankment on both sides, there was no escape. The only thing to do was to step through as lightly and quickly as possible. Yuk! I've included a photo of my post mud dash shoes. </div><div><br></div><div>By this time it was about 11 and I was feeling hungry and a little sorry for myself that there'd be no second coffee this morning. There are just a few hamlets between Livenhac and Figeac and no opportunity to buy a coffee or snack. And in any case most shops and cafes are closed on Sunday (often Monday too for that matter). So I wandered along looking for the right spot to have a snack from the food in my pack, and to try to get some of the thick mud off my shoes. </div><div><br></div><div>I came across a modern house with a stone fence that provided some shade over the soft grass between the fence and the road. I was about to sit down and lean my pack and myself against the fence when I saw a lady in the garden, and a handsome golden Labrador. I said Bonjour and asked the lady 'in my best French' if she minded me sitting against her fence to take a rest. With that she asked if I had enough water - I did - and then whether she could make me a coffee! I had to say yes and she, Christianne, seemed happy that I did. A few minutes later Christianne and Wolfie were back with a delicious strong caffe au lait for me and, between her little English and my little French, we had a lovely chat. Such an unexpected kindness - it really made my day. </div><div><br></div><div>And I managed to get at least some of the mud off my shoes. Note to self and to future pilgrims: Throwing a few chux wipes into my pack at the last minute was a great idea. They were just the thing. </div><div><br></div><div><div>I arrived at my intended stop for tonight, Figeac, just after 3 today. It's quite a big town and, while it looked interesting, something was telling me to keep going. A gite in a small village a further 5 to 6 kms on sounded nice by which I mean I liked the sound of its name - Le Relais de Saint Jacques. </div><div><br></div><div>As the gite is not large, I called ahead and managed quite well with my limited French, introducing myself, saying I was in Figeac, what time I expected to arrive, and confirming dinner and a gite bed for the night plus breakfast to tomorrow. I'm glad I followed my intuition - it's a delightful gite set in lovely gardens and run by Jesus and Marie. Ou est Joseph? I hear you ask. They have heard that one many times! </div><div><br></div><div>While I was sitting by the river in Figeac consulting one of my guide books for the telephone number of th gite, I noticed two other pelerins beside me doing much the same. We struck up a conversation and that's how I came to walk from Figeac to La Cassagnole with Marc and Fabian from Normandy. They are on The Way for just one week. Last year they walked from Le Puy to Conques. And this year from Conques to Moissac. Fabian spoke a little English but they seemed happy for me to 'practise' my French. It must have been excruciating for them but they were gracious enought not to let on. When we arrived at my gite, I thanked them and wishes them au revoir and Bon Chemin. </div><div><br></div><div>PS. I shouldn't have been so proud of my French. There were 12 around the dinner table tonight - 11 French speakers, and me. Just as well I'm a good listener. </div><div><br></div><div>Now that I'm 10 days in, a word about guidebooks and distances. Unlike the Camino Frances in Spain where almost everyone uses John Brierley's excellent book, on the Camino Le Puy at any one time pelerins will be consulting two or three guide books because no single one does the job well. And the distances quoted are rarely consistent! Having arrived at La Cassagnole today, the two books I have say that I have walked between 255 and 275 kms in these 10 days. So who knows - but I'll settle on 260 and be happy with that. I think that means I am more than a third of the way to St Jean Pied de Port. </div><div><br></div><div>Last but never least - great to hear from you Helen (Mum), Marian, Martin, Audrey and Jan C. It's a thrill to receive messages from home. By the way, Jan C., you may recall that at Michelle and Sam's wedding we were comparing my pilgrim tan - the very attractive (not) above the sock to above the knee tan lines - with your golfer's tan. You only just nudged me out to win the title. Well, after the weather of the past few 'pants off' days, I think you may lose the crown by the time I get back. After three Caminos, and miscellaneous other walks, I fear I may be stuck with these tan lines forever. It's not a great look. C'est dommage!</div><div><br></div><div>A bientot mes amis.</div><div><br></div><div>J x</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-GS_Z2vRPaXKBnu_1PU2Bx2jxCzK-R_UDWm5pWzVG83gPkWzMW7QaBTEzrZfq3NodiuGjgN-_LuxD6HsAnnVMHiledZOQ3rKMKNikU4gFdmsZkRjs9uQ0iTMm6eqA-soFO2whKujsjA/s640/blogger-image--261766559.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-GS_Z2vRPaXKBnu_1PU2Bx2jxCzK-R_UDWm5pWzVG83gPkWzMW7QaBTEzrZfq3NodiuGjgN-_LuxD6HsAnnVMHiledZOQ3rKMKNikU4gFdmsZkRjs9uQ0iTMm6eqA-soFO2whKujsjA/s640/blogger-image--261766559.jpg"></a></div></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-J6G2nt65ZBeSEHdl-iplimCvgVlvQurdauxh4vHwW_DkETwlLkIujbiM1QeFSr1cZVM40qpGv-mRbmSqZYOIviFFpmLmqZWKOGkQ_U9cK2JeZKQGg_SsI-TJZP-WYEmFlslrZcILDg/s640/blogger-image-54843385.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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And my first day walking on my own. I am happy to report that I enjoyed the time to think back on the past week. I walked well and felt strong. My pack is starting to feel like a part of me - and that's a good sign. Feet fine. Knees fine. Splinter not worrying me. Blisters - none so far. I can't ask for better than that. </div><div><br></div><div>After a farewell breakfast with Sive in Conques I waved her off around 8.30 when her taxi arrived to take her to the airport (about 40 kms away) and back to Dublin. She was a great walking companion, and I felt lucky to have run into her some days ago when she needed to be in Conques by Friday and I was looking to make up some time. We walked at a similar pace and the conversation flowed. It was meant to be. </div><div><br></div><div>Leaving Conques a gruelling ascent for the first half hour made for a morning heart starter. Other than that, and another after the town of Decazevile, today the path was mostly through forest and on narrow rural paths. It was so green - just beautiful. And I passed so many farm animals, as you'll see from the photos. </div><div><br></div><div>I did not see many other pilgrims today and only talked to one. An 18 year old French / Australian boy from Byron Bay. He is 18, was born in Arles and his family moved to Byron Bay when he was 9. I was curious as to how a French family ended up there. A friend of his mother had established the Steiner School there and recommended the area. His name is Aurelian (spelling?) and he's just finished school. He is walking Chemin du Puy to St Jean Pied de Port, followed by Camino Frances across Spain to Santiago de Compostella then hopes to continue on the Camino Finisterre to Finisterre. He is loving Camino Le Puy and is super excited about walking in Spain. He had lots of questions and, of course, I am always happy to tak about the Spanish Camino. I saw him again tonight in the village and we continued our conversation. </div><div><br></div><div>Back to today's walk. There were no villages or towns for the first 20 kms. I had plenty of food in my pack but was looking forward to my second coffee for the day. I thought Decazeville would be the place. But as it turned out I walked straight through. This was the first ugly town I'd seen on The Way. Formerly a mining town, it really has nothing at all to commend it. Such an assault on the senses after the beauty of Conques and the tranquility of the previous hours. I decided to put my head down and walk on. Ultreya! </div><div><br></div><div>A steep climb out of Decazeville in the afternoon sun and I was feeling a little disappointed that I hadn't yet found a peaceful spot for lunch. I had bread, tuna and cheese in my pack. And was still thinking of that second coffee. Oh well, only a little over 4 kms - about an hour - to Livinhac-le-Haut, my destination for tonight. </div><div><br></div><div>You never know what's around the next corner. As it happened, it was Brigitte's Gite Sentinelle. On a table in the sunny porch of her gite, opposite a lovely stone church, there was hot coffee, hot tea, sugar, beer, red wine, home made lemonade and a donativo box. Heaven. No sign of anyone, but the sign welcomed pilgrims to make themselves at home. I sat at the table, with le pain, thon tomate and fromage, poured myself an expresso and - voila - was finally having lunch. </div><div><br></div><div>Within a few minutes, Brigitte appeared. All smiles, a big hug as if we were long lost friends. A few questions - my name, where am I from, where did I start, where am I going. She asked me if I needed anything else - no I had everything I could want - and she gave me a kiss on each cheek and wished me Bon Chemin. As usual, the Camino provides. </div><div><br></div><div>Tomorrow I expect I'll walk to Figeac, a similar distance to today. There is no opportunity to buy food or drinks between here and Figeac. I have a banana and a little cake. The boulangerie here will open at 8 and the sign says they make pique-nique baguette with jambon et fromage for 3 euros. That will be perfect. </div><div><br></div><div>I received a text message from Sheryl this afternoon. They are about a day behind me. We are keeping on touch along The Way. They will take their time getting to Figeac as Carlo is leaving from there on Tuesday. But we may get together again. Tout est possible en Camino. </div><div><br></div><div>That's it from me for tonight, other than a big thank for your comments, emails and text messages - Helen (Mum), Martin, Jill and Mandi. And to Pam - so glad you are safe and sound amidst the cyclone. </div><div><br></div><div>J x</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinre7aK4MStLUbYveRX-bBr2iNNPcbNOkSDO-2dfpu-QA-iORIuB_MPPE5bO4wwejnIv_Pt4Wx_6aFch_SRDPoTXdUxNaJXficlWhf_fcn0cLFguEsezw1hnTQ9azKyq_l87IekUhyphenhyphenfg/s640/blogger-image-178513456.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinre7aK4MStLUbYveRX-bBr2iNNPcbNOkSDO-2dfpu-QA-iORIuB_MPPE5bO4wwejnIv_Pt4Wx_6aFch_SRDPoTXdUxNaJXficlWhf_fcn0cLFguEsezw1hnTQ9azKyq_l87IekUhyphenhyphenfg/s640/blogger-image-178513456.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyUgLKBbrqFSFV3akHbZnccoMf36nmYxzXLpa6QDl4-eip8iIMAtf94AK0fvH3G43w-PnjzfcGEhGOnD6ejvGTMuFDBpYsWvq49jnBe96loZzORkH6q3KLjVjMjotVR7d5BxzMDw3O4w/s640/blogger-image--1392059474.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCsTuMP4ucV5rUGQv5k3sWmcIljcBKm2VMuFPdU78Dl2HLvxLuJ584oDr8YFbP-LZ4EisZxnpulXt3Wq5fcXbjok7aSACDyM1Tf_p0GMfs-puoR07H_qtvX1VzBNUnHgacXUDZWw6GNA/s640/blogger-image--339011420.jpg"></a></div><br></div>Jenny Hansenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05017559834923710098noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1052021807958887806.post-86174237794166831682014-04-11T18:42:00.001+02:002014-04-11T22:18:28.699+02:00Day 8 - Estaing to Conques (35 kms)<div>Estaing<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"> - Fonteilles - Massip - Golinhac - Espetrac - Senergues - Conques</span></div><div><br></div><div>What a wonderful day's walk leading us to Conques, officially one of the most beautiful villages in France - our third in the past two days. Saint-Come-d'Olt, Estaing (where we stayed last night) and now Conques. I hope the photos give you an idea. I wonder if you have visited here?</div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">A long walk but so much easier than yesterday, thanks to slightly cooler temperature, a little cloud cover and the steepest sections being in the morning when we are at our lost energetic rather than the afternoon. </span></div><div><br></div><div>This was my last day walking with Sive and a fitting end to a thoroughly enjoyable time together. By 7.30 we were ready to leave our Chambre d'Hote in Estaing along with Mary Rose and Brian from Melbourne. They had stayed in the same place and we all enjoyed breakfast together. A slight delay though. </div><div><br></div><div>The evening before I'd left my shoes downstairs as is usually the case for pilgrims who are understandably asked not to wear their dusty / muddy boots inside. On the way down to breakfast this morning in socks (2 pairs mind you) I'd felt something sharp in the heel of my left foot. Hmmm. I didn't think too much of it but as the time came to leave I soon found that I couldn't walk far without a sharp pain right into my heel. Quelle horreur!! </div><div><br></div><div>A full medical investigation followed and I discovered two splinters. Not good news. Ultimately, with minor surgery, assisted by Sive, I was able to remove the larger of the two splinters and we were on our way by 8 am. Crisis averted. The other splinter is still there and it bothered me a little today, but not enough to get in the way of our 30+ kms. A little paw paw ointment and compeed for cushioning and I'm hoping it won't cause any problems. </div><div><br></div><div>We four walked uphill through the forest for the first three hours before leaving Mary Rose and Brian at Golinhac. I won't see them again on this Camino as they stayed two towns back tonight and are finishing their walk in Conques tomorrow night. But this morning's walk gave us a chance to get to know each other a little better and uncovered a surprising coincidence. Brian asked me where I lived and when I replied Crows Nest he said 'I have a brother in Crows Nest'. Long story short, his brother, sister-in-law and family live in Ernest Steet, same as me. He is going to check the street number - he's pretty sure it's 90 something on the south side of the street. I'm at 106 across the road. I look forward to introducing myself when I get home! </div><div><br></div><div>A special treat tonight - we are staying in the the abbey in Conques - the Abbeye Sainte-Foy. It's wonderful. In the photos towards the end, the abbey is to the left of the church and has purple / maroon shutters. Our second treat, a delicious farewell dinner with Sive. She's been great company and I'm sure I will miss her in the coming days. </div><div><br></div><div>Getting late again! But want to say that I so much appreciate your comments, emails and texts. Thank you today to Cathy (love to you, Tony, Georgia, Adam and Leo), Helen C., Marian, Jill, Julie (your email just arrived as I'm writing this) and to Richard and Clare for your update on the Zoe and Zac - so pleased all going well. I really appreciate the wonderful care you are taking of my 'family'.</div><div><br></div><div>Best turn lights out and off to bed. Perhaps the monks and sisters have a curfew! </div><div><br></div><div>J x</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbpqxurpE1c8Vgz9vx9RYsiSUM4spNJhIwvr23-Ptg3wpG1Pn1xVmIgoj0Ryj7ah0H4JbenHvNrJCk2rzaN3elpJHmZvaKDu_5ug3RitQeiHt-vxnvSilIgyRPLnzgPRd846OanIUAUQ/s640/blogger-image-1851444569.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbpqxurpE1c8Vgz9vx9RYsiSUM4spNJhIwvr23-Ptg3wpG1Pn1xVmIgoj0Ryj7ah0H4JbenHvNrJCk2rzaN3elpJHmZvaKDu_5ug3RitQeiHt-vxnvSilIgyRPLnzgPRd846OanIUAUQ/s640/blogger-image-1851444569.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvq62ZsMrbfQqYmDDNcPHzm6eG8zmXcnZMVxYCkko-q-j0wDz91RsKGokUa_wBjO08VPf8FoZrDDAx-atUL2OMFJnvZuraKJzUxn30_kH5Kl-9eKPfQLduudLuqzPbg-YPJmMRBZqMag/s640/blogger-image-1296738562.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA4dV9MjcU-KUWX95yERvQ_jUFlEFnYd3fqtGFVB_warVTT4ZbNluX_FglArfbh9Y1DSKroKOR6htkp0ZVWv7c9Q122jgIL-LPWVMH4lasHhJ4jXd5qeM3tZA44SAq06btba62yiusZg/s640/blogger-image-1088497756.jpg"></a></div><br></div>Jenny Hansenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05017559834923710098noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1052021807958887806.post-16909597729471688292014-04-10T21:52:00.001+02:002014-04-10T22:27:45.120+02:00Day 7 - Saint-Chely-d'Aubrac to Estaing (34.7 km)<div>Saint-Chely-d'Aubrac - Saint-Come-d'Olt - Combes - Espalion - Saint Pierre-de-Bessiejouls - Verrieres - Estaing</div><div><br></div><div>Bon soir, I hope this post arrives in your 'mailbox' at the usual time. It's late here and I'm pretty tired. </div><div><br></div><div>Walking again with Sive today. We had a big day, setting out at 7.30 am and arriving in Estaing around 6 pm. Just time to shower, do some hand washing and stroll around this stunning village, officially one of the most beautiful in France. Within a few minutes we had run in to Mary Rose and Brian (from Melbourne) and they kindly invited us to join them for dinner. So my plan to have a quick bite and back to our Chambre d'Hote to write a decent update followed by an early night ... well, instead just a quick note and hope the photos will make up for that. </div><div><br></div><div>It was both the most beautiful and most strenuous day's walking so far. The brilliant sunshine was, for the most part, very welcome and made for extraordinary scenery. But it was punishing in the steep climbs through rough scrub this afternoon. The photos tonight tell only part of the story - the scenic part. As for the other - when you're struggling up a steep rocky path dripping with sweat, you don't fancy stopping to get the camera out - at least not often! Although I have included a photo of a particularly awful mud track and the effect on my shoes. I haven't bothered to try to clean them - I figure the sun tomorrow will dry the mud and it will just disappear as we walk. Hope so! </div><div><br></div><div>Best sign now off as it's nearly 10.30 here. We have another early start tomorrow as we plan to make it to Conques - that's a little further than today's walk. Yikes. Sive flys from there back to Ireland on Saturday morning, so no choice really. Wish us well. After Conques, I imagine I'll be on my own, at least for a while. </div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div>Just <span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">before I go, a SUPER BIG THANK YOU - Helen (Mum), Helen C, Luise in Perth, David A (the Brisbane one), Robert, and all the way from the USA, Evan Garrett (who was a fabulous Camino buddy to Jill and I in 2013). Wonderful to receive your lovely comments and good wishes this morning. </span></div><div><br></div><div>Bye for now. </div><div><br></div><div>J xx</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhecVhUQ9upRGlds7r97vsvCjNm23OvKQg3UkGS2CKzaraSLJ1wU95_nq3PmGPJO4Yq3NuhhTcfjslFJ0mZaGU_CSOKYV7e4PGX2ury8u_aTey7MB4qUhKmaZPYHu0uFX77-9K1GZq7og/s640/blogger-image-1850432220.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhecVhUQ9upRGlds7r97vsvCjNm23OvKQg3UkGS2CKzaraSLJ1wU95_nq3PmGPJO4Yq3NuhhTcfjslFJ0mZaGU_CSOKYV7e4PGX2ury8u_aTey7MB4qUhKmaZPYHu0uFX77-9K1GZq7og/s640/blogger-image-1850432220.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdURv2ndkRSPl71j_58iOChjijyyBqLZZIBlqP-9BkssT9GaX-N-jBm7zcBnQuJGFnopijw5e5ZS1eNL4WaqzvL3RIMXvMVO5csRsWjvA6WyleYrGodSnldoQX8FtOiKR4KcRekwa-GQ/s640/blogger-image--1239075464.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUB-ncjwU16EArBeBRTEsXPwBUH_Fl3vaD80QzImq8iBIvahnA-chzZVwl6VV5smjDSc2HpNn_ew6CFOXqd-qWmqujKn3odI35g2RmSk-w8ipzHN4IooaLNNPilTYPW4UhRrvmcr_xxw/s640/blogger-image-360755778.jpg"></a></div><br></div>Jenny Hansenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05017559834923710098noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1052021807958887806.post-14686328762941634682014-04-09T16:40:00.001+02:002014-04-09T22:33:25.072+02:00Day 6 - Nasbinals to Saint-Chely-d'Aubrac (30 km, officially 16 km)<div>Nasbinals - Aubrac - forest - Aubrac - Saunt-Chely-d'Aubrac</div><div><br></div><div>If there is one thing I've learned from my previous two Caminos it's that whatever your plans or expectations, sometimes The Camino has other ideas. </div><div><br></div><div>Today Sive and I set out before 7.30 as planned. Our idea was to walk the 31 kms to Saint-Come-d'Olt. The distance involves an 8 km uphill hike to Aubrac followed by a 23 km steep descent firstly to Saint-Chely and then on to Saint-Come. We had an early breakfast with Sheryl, Glenn and Carlo. I said a sad farewell to Carlo and bid Sheryl and Glenn a bientot but not au revoir as we all felt it likely we may meet again on The Way before St Jean Pied de Port. Turns out it was much sooner than we imagined. </div><div><br></div><div>The hike to Aubrac was spectacular and we made great progress. We arrived at Aubrac around 10, enjoyed a great coffee, managed to resist some spectacular pies (see photos), caught up with Mary Rose, Brian and Dayton and headed off at 10.30 feeling supremely confident that we would make a short day of our 31 km and arrive in Saint-Come by mid afternoon. </div><div><br></div><div>As we made our way down the hill we were chatting up a storm, perhaps not taking quite as much notice of markers as we should have. Long story short, we took a wrong turn and were soon lost in a dense forest. The problem was that once in the forest we found ourselves in a sort of Camino Bermuda Triangle. Apparently there are a number of other routes (not shown on our maps) so there were Camino markers all around and in all directions. To our credit we remained calm and in good humour. Thankfully it was a clear and sunny day and, due to our early start, we had plenty of daylight hours. So we didn't panic. </div><div><br></div><div>At around 2.45, more than four hours after we had left Aubrac, the small village was in sight again, albeit from another direction. The last hour or so was on a road and we had not seen one car travelling in the right direction in all they time. Finally one came into view and we waved it down. It was our lucky day (if you don't count being lost for four hours in the forest). </div><div><br></div><div>The couple in the car were heading in the direction of Aubrac - we had about 3 km to go by then - and said they would drive us there. On the way we told them our story. By the time we arrived at the turn off to Aubrac, this lovely and friendly French couple had offered to drive us the additional 8 km to Saint-Chely. We accepted enthusiastically! Merci beaucoup Jean Louis and Nadine. Vows etes tres, tres gentil. Having walked around 30 kms to reach a town which was 16 kms from our starting point this morning we didn't feel the slightest pang of guilt in accepting Jean Louis and Nadine's offer. The way I see it I've now walked an extra 14 kms!</div><div><br></div><div>So, as it turned out Sive and I had another delightful evening tonight with Sheryl, Glenn and Carlo! And they were delighted to see us. We have some ground to make up to get to Conques in the next two days, so we will start out early again tomorrow and hope that we make it to our destination this time. I'll let you know. </div><div><br></div><div>Before I sign off, in case you're wondering who the people are in the photos below</div><div><br></div><div>First photo - Brian and Mary Rose from Melbourne at same restaurant as us last night. </div><div>Next photo - Carlo, Sive, Sheryl and Glenn at dinner last night. </div><div>Further down- Mary Rose, Brian and Dayton (French pilgrim) in front of the fire at the wonderful restaurant in Aubrac. </div><div>Further down again - Sive and I shimmying under electrified fence as we cut across private property on our way to Aubruc, for the second time. </div><div><br></div><div>And finally the last two photos. These are paintings by Carlo who I've been travelling with since Le Puy and who gave me permission to include in my blog. Carlo is a nurse in Antwerp and an artist (self taught) and art teacher in his spare time. He has an exhibition coming up soon after he returns from The Camino (he will leave Figeac early next week). Carlo's paintings are extraordinary, I think. The story behind these two paintings is that Carlo donated them to an organisation that tries to combat bullying and to care for people who have suffered at the hands of bullies. This painting is of a young man in his early thirties who had suffered so much from bullying throughout his teens that he was on the verge of suicide. He asked Carlo to paint this picture which he describes as his older wiser self caring for and protecting him. Perhaps you can tell from these paintings that Carlo is a caring and sensitive soul. He is also an absolute hoot with a great sense of humour. I will miss him on The Camino. </div><div><br></div><div>Finalky, thank you to Ian Cairns, Helen C and Sara for your comments. Great to hear from you this morning. I appreciate your good wishes. </div><div><br></div><div>Off to bed now. Another big day tomorrow - over 30 - and hopefully we will not lose our way!</div><div><br></div><div>J x</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_e_BuditRjDaNWQfMTR78kEAlgoTzTEUDSsXw_qWtVzASw3a5Vh14ofjyrCAen57lZllRcb7G5WRjHpW4XDqX27qsAykl-V8IOxyLazPdHZIe8qESesZxuLlGxW_ZSxBDF5z3Z3FRWA/s640/blogger-image-351568172.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_e_BuditRjDaNWQfMTR78kEAlgoTzTEUDSsXw_qWtVzASw3a5Vh14ofjyrCAen57lZllRcb7G5WRjHpW4XDqX27qsAykl-V8IOxyLazPdHZIe8qESesZxuLlGxW_ZSxBDF5z3Z3FRWA/s640/blogger-image-351568172.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7zi296x2A-AWPWS_FVQ733882zcnvopzRHc77UGrnNKM7uWu0xtfxuaS0ykj1zPrvtIwYhyphenhyphenatVQR-om9EFSmF9hhldcJcVf8clexxvm7xNPyCllbvnq30P42-kAe1opbtKSgBcpeeUg/s640/blogger-image--1569285537.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPXWVIuwfD4ucpVuJM4bu4c3qT6UhMaa6oblEzg1TQs7kQ1sz9V8wKK1wVukbDCgedzS-9LVF1Q_9xc23GkeVzcjl4FzqgjuX_lr6vZslH99fJJ6_ZR8khFkvU51rEQO5PuyMV1tP0Lw/s640/blogger-image--431952325.jpg"></a></div><br></div>Jenny Hansenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05017559834923710098noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1052021807958887806.post-1469467196270361382014-04-08T18:46:00.001+02:002014-04-08T22:07:31.653+02:00Day 5 - Aumont-Aubrac to Nasbinals (26 km)<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Aumont-Aubrac - Lasbros - Les Quatre Chemins - Finieroyls - Rieutort d'Aubrac - La Grange Les Enfants - Montgros - Nasbinals. </span></div><div><br></div><div>Bon soir mes amis. Apologies for another not very inspiring or descriptive update tonight. I'm experiencing a busy social life at present - which will quieten down I'm sure when I bid a bientot to Sheryl, Glenn and Carlo probably tomorrow or the day after. In the meantime there seems little time left to write at the end of each day. </div><div><br></div><div>Today, for example, after a wonderful walk in rain, then wind, then sunshine, across the Aubrac Plateau (reminded me of the Meseta on the Camino Frances in Spain), we arrived at our gite at around 4 which seems early enough. But by the time we unpack, shower and do the hand washing, it's time to meet some other Camino friends for a drink at a local bar (the only bar) to discuss the day's events and who's going where tomorrow. Our circle of friends now includes two French pilgrims Francis and Stan, and an Australian couple Brian and Mary Rose from Melbourne. And an Irish girl, Sive.</div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">We met Sive (rhymes with hive) at our gite last night and I walked with her much of today. She has an interesting life story including six years with an NGO in Rvwanda and another two in Zimbabwe. And she's only in her early thirties. Like me, this is her third Camino. Sive needs to be in Conques by Friday so it may be that I move into the next stage of my Camino by walking to Conques with her. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">We would like to do a big day tomorrow (31 km) but the terrain and lack of facilities make it tricky. It's uphill for about 8 kms followed by a 23 km descent from 1400 meters to 200 meters - could be slow going and hard on the knees. We have a choice of accommodation at 16 km or 31 km with nothing in between. At this stage our plan is to make an early start, walk the 16 km and assess the situation then, depending on weather and how we're faring. We'll see what happens. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">So, time to get some sleep. </span></div><div><br></div><div>Before I sign off, thank you to Helen (Mum), Helen C (Helen Christopher), Rosanne and Judy for your comments and emails. Lovely to hear from you. I now have two Helens following and and commenting. And two David Andrews! In case you're reading the comments and trying to work out who's who - David is David Andrews from the Gold Coast, brother of Jill and long time friend of Marian. David A is the other David Andrews - from Brisbane, dear friend and husband of another dear friend Marianne. At least I think I have that right. </div><div><br></div><div>Love from me. </div><div><br></div><div>J x</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7jgsJd_CKvMof2xOwAfxvC3nUBBfZ7wkM_cBctSq0i6Pw2g3F3uecPeefWw2-Nah3VLBd3hmAK-e0uGxKN3AEUx6HNucXeZdQVODfI6YByW83d9BXB3pJjxxfnrKGh-o2idwkE6VuRA/s640/blogger-image-490842735.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7jgsJd_CKvMof2xOwAfxvC3nUBBfZ7wkM_cBctSq0i6Pw2g3F3uecPeefWw2-Nah3VLBd3hmAK-e0uGxKN3AEUx6HNucXeZdQVODfI6YByW83d9BXB3pJjxxfnrKGh-o2idwkE6VuRA/s640/blogger-image-490842735.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIF9569Fmf9bjIo1Nkio7yvoPsBC8H0WKwyvbPaQQUT6q3KCyAPTCbUEDaKBPIlwhknGEBSUuLsNff1yHZk0ggXew_QHZN4l4zFvkpVEvI7krf3o8R-nb9P38xoP787mVNfhY9ZrMrhw/s640/blogger-image-2059096792.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6H-YHKyHz-2-1IkqnDJExgO8Zf09kd1aruWFrPszMuqNGYwC5lv8a9qqVeGUJ8ZY7Nf2G-R55cLH4qhWk4ImGptQnNndZ_21iZGfB_kIio7G-LM25HVqobCb0IHW2iQLznnLKxaKDkQ/s640/blogger-image-520340132.jpg"></a></div><br></div>Jenny Hansenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05017559834923710098noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1052021807958887806.post-42407002446887457192014-04-07T18:40:00.001+02:002014-04-07T21:06:57.843+02:00Day 4 - Le Sauvage to Aumont-Aubrac (27 km)<div>Le Sauvage - La Roche-sur-Lajo - Les Faux - Le Rouget - Saint-Alban-sur-Limagole - Les Estrets - Bigose - Aumont-Aubrac</div><div><br></div><div>Just a short post tonight. Time has gotten away from me. </div><div><br></div><div>A great day's walk in brilliant sunshine. I'm not sure of the temperature but I think it may have been low 20s - very warm for this time of year. Perhaps a colder spell starting tomorrow. </div><div><br></div><div>Today, it was Sheryl, Glenn, Carlo and me. We said a bientot to Bob, his daughter Amberley, Tina and Rebecca, although I may see them again in a few days' time depending on whether I'm still with the others or decide to push on. Hmmm. I guess I have to work out what I need most - to be in company with these lovely people for as long as possible even if it cuts off some options, or to follow a different path - albeit on the same path if you know what I mean! The answer is in my heart somewhere! </div><div><br></div><div>Today was also my first Camino 27 day. It seems to be a magical number for me on the Camino. In 2011 arriving in Santiago on Day 29 I had walked an average of 27 kms. In 2013 when Jill and I arrived in Santiqgo on Day 29 of course we had also walked an average of 27 kms. So it seems a distance that suits me and I certainly felt that today. It was a solid day's walk. I was tired but not too tired. I wonder if by the end of this Camino and my time in Spain, my average daily distance will turn out the same! I guess we will find out. </div><div><br></div><div>Along the path today we saw three more messages from Phillipe. This one is good to remember for those among us who are our own worst critic. I don't recall the exact French words but the meaning seemed to be 'Your foibles and mistakes are part of your humanity. The important thing is to learn.' </div><div><br></div><div>Thanks so much for being in touch Helen, Michael, Connie, Marian, Jill, Clare and Richard. It's great to wake up to messages from family and friends. Sorry that I'm often slow to reply to texts and emails, just because of time difference and no network coverage but know that I very much appreciate hearing from you. </div><div><br></div><div>J xx</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZO_sy3UpL3vvMFfhPs30W5vuFuAUSI66tF4mPMAYEEETf69Z-Dbwjm2NKZh3leTBnhBmdBWUuvecVtKnIEVI4DXk-Uci-09rO4xKNYwxF-g34xwTPvjyXISHQr3QwvS5z3ywE3IVHNA/s640/blogger-image--923886486.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZO_sy3UpL3vvMFfhPs30W5vuFuAUSI66tF4mPMAYEEETf69Z-Dbwjm2NKZh3leTBnhBmdBWUuvecVtKnIEVI4DXk-Uci-09rO4xKNYwxF-g34xwTPvjyXISHQr3QwvS5z3ywE3IVHNA/s640/blogger-image--923886486.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhILs5qq_eS-8g60ko2CgO2p23R7U5cz4iZslLWLUlRKUuwQP-EiY6V30lUc932V4Eze4GrnzI8cXjrvKBZg6PQrmCj3o7AFauyAB_8UThXXIj3RBq-qv_7ZbogKhEkPvnrlfp_GGxIqw/s640/blogger-image--21738506.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9tc1216oqUB9okucKkMlvCltsIJu3wSkISDP_rqOgI_PBtJy1Pfblg46AL_UCdAVF1oUEIj_lvfHVp8GVkJf6tRLSaa9rxW44PHOL_Q-VT-KffGQ0KHhQ3YqBayyijrtGG3S0SblUCw/s640/blogger-image--338617476.jpg"></a></div><br></div>Jenny Hansenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05017559834923710098noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1052021807958887806.post-90333555164626151412014-04-06T18:24:00.001+02:002014-04-06T20:55:43.619+02:00Day 3 - Saugues to Le Sauvage (19 km)<div>Saugues<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"> - La Clauze - Le Falzet - Le Villeret d'Apchier - Chanaleilles - Le Sauvage</span></div><div><br></div><div>Today was a perfect day on the Camino. </div><div><br></div><div>Jill, it reminded me of our 'Casa Carmen' day. The path was kind, the countryside was peaceful, the forests majestic - and the sun came out! It was the first 'pants off' day by which I mean the bottom halves of my.hiking pants were zipped off. Always a cause for celebration. By early afternoon we had arrived at Le Sauvage en Gevaudan a collective managed by 33 farmers who decided to revive this exceptional historical site in the heart of the Margeride region. This is our gite for tonight. This time we are 6 to a room - a light, bright and spacious room. </div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Another short distance today but Glenn, Sheryl and I walked ahead for much of the day which meant we were here soon after 2 - time to enjoy the sunshine, and get our washing done and on the line. Another significant event. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">I feel so fortunate to be here tonight considering that last night I was wondering whether I would walk on today. There was talk among my companions of continuing for some time walking at around 20 kms each day. But I am mindful that too many short days may mean I won't have the option to walk the whole of the Camino Primitivo after completing the Camino Le Puy. Even though that idea is not set in stone I am keen to keep the option open at least this early on. So this was weighing on my mind last night. On the one hand I don't want to lose my options too early on. On the other hand, I am not ready to part from this group. </font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><br></font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">By the time I woke this morning it was clear to me that all I needed to do was to do nothing but to see how the day unfolded and the answer would become clear. I didn't know then that shortly after walking out of Saugues the Camino would provide a reminder for me to take one day at a time. More on that later.</font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><br></font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">In reflecting on the first few days I know that I have not written at all about the history or culture of the towns and villages I've walked through so far, nor about the sumptuous produce and wonderful meals we have enjoyed with our hosts always presenting local specialties and 'secret' recipes like the famous green lentils we enjoyed in Le Puy. The truth is, as those who have followed my earlier blogs will know, I tend not to focus on those things. There is so much local history and culture particular to each town or village that I know very little and would not know where to begin. For those who have a special interest the names of each village we pass through will give you a starting point to learn more. </font></div><div><br></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">As with my earlier two Caminos, what stays with me is the countryside and architecture (hopefully portrayed best in photos not words), and the people, the sense of community and random acts of kindness. This is what epitomises the Camino for me. Just one short story to illustrate. More another day when the wi-fi is not so 'fragile'. </font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><br></font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">Last night one of the pilgrims at our gite was Sylvie, a lovely French lady we first met in Le Puy together with her partner Vincent, a former Swiss high flyer who now runs a donativo (by donation) further along the Le Puy path. Perhaps I will stay there. But that's another story. Sylvie told us of a man she met Phillipe who is now walking the Camino Le Puy and leaving messages along Thr Way tied to fences and trees to provide support to fellow pilgrims. Just a short way out of Saugues this morning I read the first of Phillipe's notes. The literal translation is 'The first thing for a pilgrim to learn on The Camino is to take care of each day'. I take that to mean take one day at a time. Of course this is always the way of The Camino but sometimes I forget. As soon as I read Phillipe's message, a burden lifted. I'm so pleased to have had that timely reminder and to be in this special place tonight with old friends and new friends. I'm so glad I didn't walk on. </font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><br></font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">Before I sign off thank you to Marian, Jan, Cathy, David, Dad, Sue and Judy for you comments, emails and messages. It's such a thrill to hear from home. </font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><br></font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">I wonder what Thr Camino has in store tomorrow </font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><br></font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">A bientot. </font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><br></font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">J x</font></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7FaGjdDxDoi5lAOaiOAkHsgA85kF9SmWAjAu6YAORBGP_xlM-FVA6TceocGpRfr4fEdYMskwy_z1ZTX1ocn72pEoNYILcVCwTlezmW5i5BPaOHk7C_6LTUPDnpdCsDVg6Xjmu9bp51A/s640/blogger-image--415923604.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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