Day 27 - Aroue-Ithorots-Olhaiby to Ostabat-Asme (23 kms)

Aroue - Calvaire-de - Benta - Stele de Gibraltar - Chapelle de Soyarza - Harambels - Ostabat-Asme

A new day on Chemin du Puy. Et tout est bien - all is well. Thanks in large part to the kindness of family and old and new friends. Will explain a little later.  

A wonderful farm gite last night with yet again a fabulous dinner, cooked by the young gite owner Simone and her mother. Her husband runs the farm. I know I haven't gone into the detail but the food on the Chemin du Puy has been outstanding. The French are proud of their produce and cooking, as they should be. My friend Rosanne said the other day, 'It's almost impossible to get a bad meal in the French countryside'. I think Lilly and Bill would agree. It's not fair really. I've been walking my butt off for the past four weeks. But thanks to the delicious food and wine, and to my inability to say no, I have not actually walked my butt off at all. Damn. 

There were about 20 pilgrims in the gite last night - you may have noticed there have been more pilgrims on The Way in the last week or so. But continuing my good fortune, just Delphine and I sharing a 3 bed room. On Chemin du Puy the gites I've stayed in have mostly had rooms for between 2 and 6 people. That's a luxury on the Spanish Camino. 

I set off this morning with Dominique, in light rain. Delphine had left about half an hour earlier. She walks at a little slower pace so we often end up together some time later - as we did today. Having made the long climb to Chapelle de Soyarza, we found Delphine having picnic lunch in the tiny chapel with Swiss couple Dominique and Blaise, who I'd met at Simone's gite last night. We all had the tastiest jambon, fromage, tomate and salade baguettes that Simone had prepared for our lunch, as there were no shops, cafes or bars along the way today. The views from Chapelle de Soyarza were worth the climb. What a great spot to stop for lunch and rest for a while. 

It was strange setting out this morning, reminding myself that I was just 42 - 45 kms from St Jean Pied de Port - depending on which book you use. Two days solid walking, though not overly long days  - yet little more than half an hour by car. As has been the case for the past week, we had rain and sunshine - and a few hard climbs thrown in this afternoon just to make sure we were still paying attention!  And I had company all day which was a nice change. There were shortcuts on offer again today - naturally - but this time not everyone took them!  Which brings me to a funny thing that happened yesterday but I wasn't in the right frame of mind to tell the story last night. 

Yesterday morning when I was having breakfast at l'Alchimiste, there was much talk of the pate man. I thought it must be a shop in the town. I didn't take much notice as I wasn't too concerned about food for yesterday's 18 km walk. I had one muesli bar left in my pack, and that should be enough. 

About two hours or so into the morning's walk, I climbed a small hill to an intersection and sure enough there was the pate man's factory and warehouse. Outside there is a small picnic area where pilgrims are welcome to stop and rest. And many varieties of duck liver and chicken liver pate are available for just 2 euros. I bought a chicken liver and Armagnac. Haven't tasted it yet, but I'm sure it will be great. I plan to buy 'le pain' in the morning before heading off, so bread and pate will be lunch. 

While I was resting there I decided to check my emails. I saw there was one from Pierre (from SJPP) with the subject matter 'shortcuts'. Immediately I felt a pang of regret having the night before written about the French fondness for 'le shortcut', realising it was a big generalisation based on a small number of pilgrims and local gite owners.  And more to the point, I'd forgotten that Pierre was reading my blog. Yikes. Well, no need for concern. 

Pierre was very strong in his email. I must continue to follow The Way, the true Camino, as I have been doing. Tomorrow, he said (i.e. Today), many pilgrims will take a shortcut and, by doing so, will miss the Chapelle de Soyarza and, just before it, the Stele de Gibraltar (a small intersection where three Caminos converge - Chemin du Puy, Chemin du Tours (from Paris) and Chemin du Vezelay. 

He continued, 'It is typical of the French (and the Dutch) to look for shortcuts. They are coming to walk but they are looking to take as many shortcuts as possible (frowning face symbol). Strange to do Camino like this ... No?'  Yes. 

Smiling to myself, and relieved that Pierre had not been offended, I gathered my gear together and walked over to the pate man to thank him and say au revoir. He asked where I would be staying that night. When I mentioned the farm gite he assured me it was a very good place and that Simone was a wonderful cook. And so it is, and she is.  And then he added, 'There is a very good shortcut tomorrow, just a short time after you pass ....  You must be sure to take it!'  Voila. 

Best start wrapping it up for the night. Big thank you to those I've heard from over the past few days and hadn't yet mentioned and for all the kind words and encouragement overnight regarding the loss of the l'Alchimiste photos. To Luise in Perth, Martin, Jill, Pierre, Helen (mum), Julie, Pam, Cathy, Audrey, Rosanne, Judy, Marian, Bill and Lilly, David A, Ange, and Cathryn and Ray - and to Clare and Richard for taking care of Zac and Zoe and sending more photos. 

On the subject of the deleted photos from l'Alchimiste, some great news. When I told Domimique what I had done, he immediately announced, 'ah, but Jenny, all is not lost!'  He asked me to bring the camera to him. He said he believed I may be able to retrieve the photos when I return home. They are still 'there' until such time as I take more photos on the camera. He said the most important thing after such an accident was not to take any more photos on that memory card. He removed it from my camera and locked it. He said he could not guarantee that I will get the photos back, but 'it is very possible - why not?'  

I felt my spirits lift straight away. The only problem is that I don't have a spare, meaning no more photos until I can buy another card. 'I have the solution!', said Domimique. With that, he disappeared and returned a few minutes later with a spare memory card for me. Such kindness. That's why I have photos today. 

Then this morning, an email from Cathryn and Ray in Sydney giving me the exact same advice. They have been down that road with special photos from Uluru - and with the help of Paxtons camera store in Sydney managed to retrieve many, though not all, of the deleted photos. I am thrilled to know of this possibility. And if I do get those photos back I will do a post Camino update to share them with you!

Finally, happy birthday wishes for the 28th, 29th and 30th to Maddie, Nick and Rebecca. Hope each of you have (had) a great day. 

Day 28 tomorrow, walking in to St Jean Pied de Port, the end of Chemin du Puy - though I have a little more walking to do after that. 

Merci et bon nuit. A demain. 

J x

PS have included photos of Zoe and Zac doing it tough while I'm away. Hard to imagine that there was a time we were concerned that Zac might not 'bond' as he can be a little fearful until he gets to know you. I heard that his bromance with Richard started within the first week. Still going strong I'd say!  

Day 26 - Navarrenx to Aroue-Ithorots-Olhaiby (18 kms)

I can't write today. And I have only one photo to share. Sorry. 

I took many photos at l'Alchimiste last night and this morning. It is one of the most beautiful homes to be welcomed in to and a highlight of the Chemin. And it is 'donativo' - by donation. A special place offered by kind, generous and smiling people. 

When I was uploading the photos to my iPad I was so excited to look at them and choose the best to share. But I had first to make more space. I accidentally deleted all the photos from the iPad and camera - except one saved yesterday afternoon.  

This is my most difficult day on The Way. 

J x

Days 24 and 25 - Arzacq-Arraziguet to Arthez-de-Bearn to Navarrenx (57.5 kms)

Day 24 - Arzacq-Arraziguet to Arthez-deBearn (28.5 kms)

Day 25 - Arthez-de-Bearn to Navarrenx (29 kms)

To start at the end, this afternoon after a tough day I arrived at the gite chez l'Alchimiste. What a peaceful and special place. I received the warmest of welcomes from Jean-Gitean (the alchemist!) and Emmanuelle, a volunteer. I feel lucky that, by chance, I am one of just 8 pilgrims who can be accommodated here. Most days I choose the gite based on the name and / or a recommendation. It was difficult to resist chez l'Alchimiste, just as it was to resist Gite Boulangerie the night before. Though they are entirely different, I'm very happy to have found my way to both. More on l'Alchimiste tomorrow as I'm getting ahead of myself. 

Apologies for not posting an update yesterday - the connection was weak at Gite Boulangerie and I wasn't able to upload the photos. We enjoyed a wonderful dinner there - with Dominque, Max, Sebastian and others (photos included in this post). Very welcome after another tough afternoon. Bertrand the gite owner also owns the local Boulangerie/Patisserie (which explains the name of the gite) so this morning, as instructed by him, we made our way to the village and sat in the kitchen at the back of his store eating the freshest and most delicious chocolate croissants!  But back to the walking.

The accepted wisdom on Chemin du Puy is that the first 10 days are the toughest and the path eases off after that. Overall I'd say that is the case but every day seems to have at least one or two real kickers, and that's not counting dealing with the mud. In the last two days, the afternoons have been particularly tough, with two or three gruelling ascents. Yesterday, in heavy rain and strong, cold wind. This afternoon, thankfully just a light drizzle. 

There seems to be a recurring theme on the Chemin du Puy which moves more or less in a south westerly direction - compared to Camino Frances which is almost a straight line running from east to west across Spain. So this afternoon on the Chemin was typical. After a steep climb, I was walking along the top of a ridge. I could see the path running straight ahead for about 100 metres.  To my left was another deep valley and, clearly visible on the other side, a narrow road running steeply up to yet another ridge. You look at the steep path and say to yourself surely that won't be The Way. But of course you know that it is. And with that, on the straight path which lay ahead a sign appears indicating that The Way requires a sharp turn to the left. And so begins a steep descent to the bottom of the valley, so that you can make your way up the other side. It happens without fail. There's a joke my French friends like to tell about the Chemin. 'If I am heading south, why am I always climbing?'.

The other recurring theme of this Camino is that the French appear to very partial to 'le shortcut'. This first came to my attention some weeks ago with the Frenchman Pierre-Michel. I would often pass him early in the day only to pass him again later on. One particular day, I came out of a forest to find him coming up the road to my right. I asked him if he had been lost. Not at all. He proudly showed me on the map that he had worked out a shortcut by taking the road instead of the forest. Initially I thought this was just a Pierre-Michel thing. Not so. 

Over the last three days, there have been two instances where my companions have excitedly announced that the gite owner or another local has told them how to make a shortcut. Today it was about 2 kms, on Saturday they say it was about 7. Word seems to spread like wildfire and the end result is that everyone from the gite bar me - and one other today - opts for the shortcut. That's how I managed to start Saturday with Dominique and Delphine and end up walking on my own from 11.30 on. And today, I walked with Dominique, and the German boys Max and Sebastian for about 15 minutes before they opted for the road to save two kilometres. Yesterday no shortcuts, so Dominque, Max, Sebastian and I walked together all day and it was most enjoyable. And, as a result, what was to have been French day, turned out to be English day. 

Back to the shortcuts. I just don't get it. I'd be the first to opt for a shorter distance if I were injured, not feeling well, running out of time, or the conditions made the path dangerous. But in the normal course of events, it seems odd to me that so many people opt to walk other than on The Way. Except for a couple of variants to avoid busy roads, I don't recall this phenomenon in Spain. But, on the other hand, mon amies are confounded that I don't go with them. All I can say to them is that the Camino has always been kind to me (even when I miss a turn and take the wrong path and have to backtrack as I did again today - uggghh!) and so I will stay on The Way. 

Before I sign off, big thank you for being in touch Helen (Mum), Audrey, Rosanne, Cathryn, Marian and Julie-Ann. Always lovely to hear from home. 

Not far to go now - about 60 kms to St Jean Pied de Port. I have no reason to hurry so I will walk the final distance over the next three days - sounds very relaxing!  

A bientot. 

J xx

Day 23 - Aire-sur-l'Adoure to Arzacq-Arraziguet (34 kms)

Aire-sur-l'Adour  - Miramont-Sensacq - Pimbo - Arzacq-Arraziguet

Today was a strange day on The Way. But that's rather a long story so will have to wait for another time. I've come back from dinner a little late. All of a sudden a whole gang of English speakers appeared at dinner at the gite. A group of six from Belgium, Anders from Switzerland, and two young pilgrims (university students) Max and Sebastian from Germany. 

For the past two weeks, almost every night I have been the sole non-French speaker at the dinner table - tonight English ruled. It was a nice change to understand and be able to participate in  the conversation. But there's a price to pay. Dominique announced that if we were to walk together tomorrow, Sunday, it will be French day, ie, I have to speak French all day. I'm not concerned. It will be far worse for him than for me!  

I hope I run in to Max and Sebastian again. I love to see young people on The Way - like Evan and Jane last year (we dubbed The Children of the Camino). If I'd known about The Camino in my backpacking days, I think it would have been just the ticket.  Max and Sebastian started in Le Puy en Velay and are hoping to walk all the way to Santiago, then on to Finisterre. They were excited and full of questions when they discovered I had walked that Way. For those who are walking on, St Jean Pied de Port and the crossing the Spanish border and on to Roncesvalles are less than a week away, so talk is turning to Spain! 

Just about bed time. - so many thanks for your emails Julie (from Seville!), Judy and Mandi, and for the great chat on the phone, Rosanne. It's strange walking along the Chemin in the French countryside talking to you on a line so clear you could be next door. What a treat. 

Before I sign off, a brief explanation of some of the photos tonight which begin with dinner last night then sunrise from my bedroom window this morning. Also, the snow capped Pyrennees - spectacular. I heard a French 'Camino' joke today.  If you can see the Pyrennees, it means that rain is on the way. If you can't see the Pyrenees, it means it's raining. Given the weather this afternoon, and the forecast tomorrow, maybe it's true!  

Also photos of a small country cottage decked out with 60th birthday decorations. I spoke to the farmer who said it was in honour of his brother's birthday. Perhaps you can see the little sign, 'Boulevard des Soixante Primtemps'. Boulevard of Sixty Summers. 

One of my favourite photos - three lovely French ladies who were so kind to me today. Will hopefully get to that story tomorrow. 

And finally, the exterior of my gite accommodation tonight where I have my own room!  More like a little studio apartment. Luxury. 

Hopefully I will be back on track with a proper update tomorrow. But who knows what the Camino has in mind for me. 

J x

PS. Though it think the daily km numbers are often out, and there is no consistency across the guide books - by all references I've walked well over 600 kms since leaving Le Puy en Velay. Not long to go now until I reach the end at St Jean Pied de Port.